Tempranillo is that wonderful Spanish red wine grape that invokes images of rustic cuisine, tapas and sun-soaked Spanish country-side.  The grape uniquely originates in Spain and has seen introduction and increased popularity in the United States.  It is a pleasant departure from the readily available Bordeaux and Rhone varietals found throughout Napa Valley.

While available from some wineries, Tempranillo is a challenge to find in Napa Valley.  The grape, like Pinot Noir, is early maturing and somewhat temperamental.  When found, the Tempranillo grape is often grown on the hilltops of the Carneros American Viticultural Area (“AVA”).  

The Carneros AVA sits at the southern end of the valley and is in closest proximity to Napa Valley’s natural air conditioning, the late afternoon marine breezes.  Tempranillo does not like hot and dry weather, yet it requires heat to grow.   It also needs higher altitude as it can be more acidic if grown at a lower location.  Since Tempranillo is an early maturing grape, if attempted to be grown up valley, it would encounter challenges with too much heat during the day, arid conditions and in the early spring, greater chance for frost or colder mornings.   The Carneros AVA provides a cooler climate yet with enough early warmth to get Tempranillo started and on its way to harvest.   While the region’s temperatures may be close to that of Spain, it still does not offer the exact same climate and while it has hilltops, the altitude is significantly lower.  Despite these challenges, a few growers and wineries successfully grow the Tempranillo grape and with some searching, you can find a wonderful Tempranillo bottling for sale in Napa Valley.  Further, while Tempranillo is harvested earlier than most red wine grapes, it still produces full-bodied wines that pair wonderfully with a broad spectrum of cuisine.

Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) located in Yountville in Napa Valley has an established relationship with a Carneros AVA grower of Tempranillo grapes.   Approximately two years ago, I featured the 2006 vintage of Goosecross’ Tempranillo with much enjoyment and it is with equal delight that I introduce now the 2008 vintage.

Even though the growing season for 2008 was a challenge due to heavy frost in the beginning of the season and later near-drought conditions throughout the summer, the grapes which did survive were intensely flavored.  Much to a winemaker’s relief, when there are fewer grapes on the vine and water struggles to reach the fruit, the flavors intensify in the grapes.  Despite the low-yield at harvest, the grapes unleash these powerful punches of flavor in the bottle.

As Goosecross’ 2008 Tempranillo meets the glass, aromas of rich fennel, strawberry, black cherry, tobacco and earth ethat merge.  Similar lush flavors glide across the palate as the wine is smooth.   Despite its texture, tannins are present yet do not overwhelm which gives the wine a recognizable structure.  Similarly, there is a pleasant acidity which gives Goosecross’ 2008 Tempranillo unique personality that almost says, “sassy”.  Bring on the piquillo peppers, there is a reason why this varietal pairs so well with Spanish fare.

Keeping in line with a Spanish theme, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      White Asparagus Piquillo Pepper Salad; and

2)     Phyllo-Wrapped Chorizo Fennel Iberico Cheese Tapas.

Native to the Basque region of Spain, white asparagus is a tender sweet vegetable.  Increasingly it can be found in local produce sections in the spring in the United States.  To create a flavor profile of contrasts, I relied on a recipe authentic to the Basque region of Spain involving piquillo peppers and a home-made vinaigrette.   The vinaigrette involves a myriad of ingredients such as piquillo peppers, hard-boiled egg, chopped green olives (which I used my favorite Californian Graber Olives for their rich buttery and nutty flavor), chives and olive oil.  This combination creates a very savory dressing as it is flavor packed and vibrant while maintaining a perfect flavorful balance.  It is beautiful in the gentle sense that spring is.

When the wine is paired with the salad, it shows its softer feminine side.  The Tempranillo seemingly floasts along the palate like soft rose petals of delicate red strawberry fruit.   Hints of spice almost drift past like smoke, rendering depth, complexity and sophistication.   If you take a sip of wine immediately after a bite of salad, the Tempranillo sends a bright burst of berry fruit across the palate.

While perhaps not a traditional Spanish tapa, phyllo-wrapped chorizo with fennel is satisfactory finger food.  Phyllo dough is light and crisps so as to not overwhelm the dish (unlike puff pastry).   This allows the subtle soft flavors of fennel, shallot and Iberico cheese to come forth while maintaining a harmonious balance with garden-fresh oregano, chives and chorizo.

The Tempranillo weaves a dance back and forth among the flavors and comfortably rests natively with this dish.  The wine readily embraces the spice by mellowing it and contributing its own while sharing rich roasted fruit along the way.  When taken together with this dish, the wine’s attributes become more masculine.

Tempranillo can changes so distinctly between these two dishes and shows how affable this varietal can be.  It is meant to sit with you over a bevy of tapas and various courses of conversation.  Invite it to your table and you will wonder why it does not have a greater presence in your wine cellar.

Over the course of the past three years, I have made a concentrated effort to pair wines largely from family-owned wineries in Napa Valley with quality cuisine that is casually manageable in the home kitchen.  This is the heartbeat of the culture of California cuisine and California wine.  The two go hand in hand, adorned by the state’s seasonal produce and celebrated by those who sit at the table where served.  While I am an advocate of enjoying wine casually in the home and not making a tremendous fuss about an occasion when a wine is opened, it cannot be disputed that there are certain events that merit something particularly special.   The prior week reflected a milestone for me and in my personal taste, it is in moments like these that a Cabernet Sauvignon from Caymus Vineyards shines like no other.

Caymus Vineyards (“Caymus”), located in Napa Valley, has been making wines for over 100 years.  In particular, Caymus is known for its prowess in Cabernet Sauvignon and with a simple sip, Chuck Wagner’s careful craftsmanship is well apparent.  The winery has often been referred to as a “one grape, one label” operation, but as I introduced two summers ago, Caymus does offer a beguiling Zinfandel.   Yet, Cabernet Sauvignon is art at Caymus and it is found in two distinct styles:  the revered Special Selections and the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Cabernet Sauvignon is king in Napa Valley and it finds ideal growing conditions whether it is grown on the valley floor or mountainside.  With its unique soil composition throughout, the varietal shows off a distinct flavor profile depending on where it is grown and contributes one of the reasons why Napa Valley has so many American Viticultural Areas (“AVA’s”) in one small stretch than other wine growing regions in the United States.  While some single vineyards can produce spectacular Cabernet Sauvignon, there is something equally outstanding when grapes are selected from various vineyards and differing AVA’s to produce a true “Napa Valley” Cabernet Sauvignon.   The Rutherford AVA is particularly known for growing exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, but Caymus recognizes the value of producing a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.   The result from Caymus is nothing short of being art in a bottle.

To celebrate my milestone last week, I selected Caymus’ 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from my collection.  While 2008 was not a classic textbook growing season (like 2007 was in Napa Valley), it did have a long dry growing season such that harvest could occur later in the fall.  With a longer growing season, the fruit could continue to ripen further on the vine and develop within Mother Nature’s hands.  For those familiar with Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, this “hang time” is a distinct component to the winery’s harvest formula.  It allows for lower acidity in the grapes, robust color and refined texture: being made so to speak in the vineyard and not in the bottle.  The results, however, once a bottle is opened are undeniable.  As the cork leaves the bottle, faint aromas that classically distinguish Caymus’ wine emerge.   The coloring in the glass is dark and robust with ruby edges.   The nose is greeted by warm notes of vanilla, cedar, plum, anise, coffee and toast.  On the palate supple fruit presenting a medley of plum and blackberry commence followed by distinct layered spices and cassis.  The tannins are present but in the 2008 vintage, they are noticeable in distinguished structure while yielding Caymus’ soft velvet-like trademark style.   Taking all of this in, it is no wonder that the Wine Spectator rated this vintage 93 points.

Caymus’ 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon could easily be sipped and savored alone.  But with a milestone celebration at hand, it was an honor to be in charge of determining the menu and developing the recipes to pair with this particular vintage.   The menu hosted:

1)      Grilled Portabello Mushrooms Stuffed with Sage Sausage;

2)     Red Wine Herb Marinated Grilled London Broil;

3)     Grilled Vegetable Arugula Salad with Shallot-Thyme Balsamic Vinaigrette; and

4)     Triple Chocolate Fudge Cake with Fresh Raspberries (not featured).

When you are anticipating serving a special wine with a special meal, close attention must be paid to acidity, sugar, herbs and spices used in the recipes.  This is an obvious rule of thumb any time that one is pairing wine with food, however, exceptional care must be taken when perfect balance is desired and a special wine is to be showcased.

Taking the wine’s attributes into consideration, I commenced with the marinade for the London Broil.   I knew that I would use a charcoal grill later to slowly cook the steak which would infuse flavor nuances of smoke.  Next, using a lighter bodied Cabernet Sauvignon as the base of the marinade, I added minced garlic and a combination of minced fresh rosemary, thyme and sage.  The amounts of fresh herb that were added were carefully measured and followed by sense of smell to ensure balance.  It was crucial that the herbs not be overwhelming in the marinade as a little can go a long way towards flavoring beef.   The beef sat in its marinade for over six hours before placed atop a charcoal grill and allowed to slowly roast.  Once emerged, the London Broil would be thinly sliced to enjoy alongside the other dishes.

While the steak sat in its marinade, sourdough bread was made and a triple chocolate cake was baked.  The sourdough bread was later used to create bread crumbs for an ingredient in stuffed mushrooms.

One portabella mushroom was diced and sautéed with minced garlic and shallots and later cooked with sausage.   Once cooked, sherry was added to the mixture, the bread crumbs, minced fresh sage and black pepper.   The mixture was then added to mushroom caps which were taken out to the charcoal grill.  Upon completion the mushrooms were topped with shredded parmesan and additional minced sage to be served as a first course.

In the final minutes before the London Broil finished on the grill, zucchini spears tossed in light olive oil were added to the grill.  Inside on the stove, slices of sweet red bell pepper were sautéed and caramelized with a dash of balsamic vinegar.  Fresh arugula was picked from the garden along with enormous fresh chives.  The grilled zucchini and caramelized red peppers were placed on top of a chive, tied neatly and placed atop a bed of arugula.  To dress the salad, fresh thyme was chopped along with a shallot before being added to a vinaigrette of olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a dash of Dijon mustard.

Taken with the wine, the meal is harmonious.  Arugula lettuce is naturally peppery and it ties neatly to the spices found in the wine.  Similarly the caramelized sweet red bell pepper accentuated the sweet cassis flavors in the wine.  The charcoal grilled London Broil complemented the smoked meat nuances of the wine.  The herbs (in particular the fresh sage) paired natively with the bouquet and flavors of the wine as the aromas found in the air along the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley.  The mushrooms were loaded with heavenly bites of layered flavor that ranged from spice, herb and earthiness. 

Those who enjoyed this meal with me commented that they were simply amazed at the balance of flavors and how everything effortless transitioned and tied to the next bite.  It was a meal fit of a milestone and its celebration.   And when the triple chocolate cake arrived later with its fudge glaze and tumbling with fresh raspberries, Caymus’ 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon continued the celebration down to the last cake crumb. Fruit flavors in the wine exploded forth with the chocolate and the bright red raspberries leant gentle acidity to clear the palate.

When time is worthy of celebration, tradition is a welcomed guest.   And as that tradition, quality that is akin to art and craftsmanship is the best tribute to the occasion.

Despite knowing numerous wine varietals well, Petite Sirah is always a varietal that causes me pause when pairing with cuisine.  In a tasting room, Petite Sirah often emerges in a glass as dark and mysterious, with a seductive nose, an involved flavor profile and with tannins ready to rival Cabernet Sauvignon.   It is a “thinker’s wine”, so to speak, as you can easily lose yourself  in a few ounces of Petite Sirah as you decipher what exactly is it that you are tasting.

This week I decided to solicit my friends for some reasonable food pairing ideas.  Right out of the gate, one friend suggested “boar”.  Boar… there is nothing reasonable about boar.  Then the conversation shifted to rabbit.   Before it could venture down the predictable path of wild game ideas, another friend suggested jokingly “tall, dark and handsome”, which got me thinking about wine varietals.  

Petite Sirah is one of the dark grapes that are often referred to as “black grapes”.   This is largely due to the dark skin of the grape itself, however, if you have ever uncorked a bottle of Petite Sirah you have seen exactly how inky and dark the end of the cork is.  If you are not careful, you will stain a countertop, your shirt cuff or your hands.  It will leave a permanent stain on a white piece of paper should you stamp it with the cork.   Similarly, Petite Sirah is known for its tannins (among many other attributes).  This ironically makes it a terrific candidate for pairing with wild game, that is should you get the inclination to serve it or order it in a restaurant.  So should someone challenge you to serve boar, clearly you know what wine varietal to serve.

Petite Sirah, however, is such an interesting varietal.   The fruit naturally is largely influenced by the soil from where the vines grow and so each vintage’s identity is highly vineyard specific.  It can also age for about ten years and often is far better with a couple of hours of decanting.   This is due to those tannins and oxidation is this varietal’s friend.  Similarly there is a distinct acidity to the wine which lends itself to tart berry juice flavors intermingled with spices, oak, and chocolate.  Because of these qualities, it also pairs very nicely with grilled meats (which is a far more reasonable pairing than, well, boar). 

A pleasant surprise about Petite Sirah is that you can find an affordable vintage that delivers just as much punch and bold character as an expensive Cabernet Sauvignon.  For under $30 a bottle, Girard Winery (“Girard”) in Yountville consistently delivers a quality Petite Sirah made from old vines.  One of the vineyards used for this bottling contains grape vines that are over one hundred years old.  Again, for this price point, Girard delivers a tremendous amount of quality.

Selecting a 2006 vintage of Girard’s Petite Sirah from my wine collection, the cork emerged from the bottle with its trademark inky dark cork.   The shade of purple that the wine has exceeds eggplant and is akin to something close to the darkest of night.  The wine cork immediately stains your hand and guarantees that it will stain your teeth.  In the glass, the wine’s color is dark and takes brooding to a new level.  Since the wine has had six years to age in the bottle, the edges of the wine show a rosy hint of plum.  Similarly the wine’s legs extend down the glass slow and seductively.   There simply is no rush with this wine.

The bouquet for the 2006 Girard Petite Sirah offers aromas of blueberry, currant, chocolate, coffee, an herbal hint of thyme and toasted oak.  If you are in Napa Valley on a wet late winter day, find yourself standing in a vineyard where the earth is still a bit wet, this wine’s bouquet is akin.   On the palate the wine is still terribly intense.   The texture is silky smooth (and increasingly velvety the longer the wine is allowed to decant) and the flavor profile is reminiscent of fresh cherries and blueberries (lending recognition to acidity).   Tannins are indeed notable although they are remarkably finely woven into the wine.  The longer the wine decants, its flavors unfurl and becomes utterly delicious.

This is shaping up to be a serious affair which thus merits some serious cuisine.  The conversation with my friends did eventually move away from boar and with some thought I suggested that I create Balsamic Burgers.   As such, this week’s menu hosts:

1)      Balsamic Rosemary Burgers with Red Onion, Spinach and Balsamic Thyme Mayonnaise; and

2)     Mini Casseroles of Asparagus, Mushrooms, Parmesan Cheese and Bacon.

Reducing balsamic vinegar into a sauce with some red wine, it is gently worked into lean ground beef with minced fresh rosemary and freshly ground black pepper.   A charcoal grill is heated and the burgers are placed out to slowly grill.  This burger is a red wine drinker’s dream and you will not miss the cheese.  If you simply must have cheese, Petite Sirah will pair wonderfully with dry aged jack cheese or parmesan.  Instead of lettuce, fresh leaves of spinach are place on a grilled buttered whole wheat hamburger bun.  One of my friends suggested slices of red onion and he could not have been more seasonally correct.   Onions are just coming into season as we near spring.   Since it is earlier in the year, red onion has a milder, flavorful taste that borders sweet.  This will create depth and a wonderful contrast to the spinach and the flavors in the burger.  A mayonnaise is made with balsamic vinegar, herbs and notably fresh thyme.

This is the new spring burger that is perfect for grilling on a 65 degree day.  With the Petite Sirah, the burger is deliciously woodsy and a nearby smoking charcoal grill adds ambience.  The pairing can enliven a cloudy spring day and turn even a shy Petite Sirah fan into an arduous lover.

As a petite gourmet side surprise, a mini casserole is created that has plate and palate appeal.  Bits of asparagus are first quickly blanched before layered with sautéed mushrooms, fresh thyme, parmesan cheese and bits of bacon.   The ensemble is baked at the last minute to provide a delicious transitional medley of winter and spring flavors that perfectly compliment Petite Sirah and allow its spices and herbs to step forth.   When paired together, the fruit found in the wine becomes almost jam-like.

So perhaps I was not adventurous enough to use boar as my instigating friends might have liked, but there is no way that you could not be wild about my Balsamic Burger and have a new regard for Petite Sirah.   The combination of the two leads those dining at your table on a culinary adventure discovering tremendously satisfying, varied layers of flavor and depth.

In 2009, when this web site was launched, Benessere Vineyard’s (“Benessere”) 2005 Sangiovese red wine was still for sale in its tasting room.  2005 had been a terrific year for Napa Valley such that many a vintner and hospitality professional were ready to tout it as a “monster year”.   Not easily outdone, 2005 was later blown away by the perfect textbook growing year of 2007.  Napa Valley was so blessed with two incredibly strong harvests in close proximity, that quickly the public’s focus settled on the 2007 vintages and everyone’s collective anticipation and wonder regarding when that vintage would be deemed ready for release.  Last year, also having waited for the 2007 vintage of Benessere’s Sangiovese, I could not wait to feature it in an article on this web site and with much enjoyment, featured it was. 

This past weekend I was asked to prepare a casual Italian pasta-based dish.  I immediately thought with fondness that I should pull that bottle of Benessere’s Sangiovese which I had received as a gift from my sibling a few months ago.  Much to my surprise, when I inspected the bottle more closely, I realized that the vintage was from 2005 (and not a 2007 vintage).   Since the release of the 2007 vintage, many a bottle of Benessere’s 2007 Sangiovese has been enjoyed with friends and visiting family members.   Yet in all of the commotion regarding the 2007 vintage, my few remaining bottles of the 2005 vintage sat cellaring away.   Add to the fact that one of these bottles of the 2005 vintage found its way into the clutches of someone less than desirable recently, it made the receipt of the gift of  Benessere’s 2005 Sangiovese even more amusingly meaningful.

Perhaps the greater transcending fondness for Sangiovese, however, is that is a varietal with which people overwhelmingly associate warm memories involving friends.   When I initially launched the site, while this 2005 vintage was for sale in Benessere’s tasting room, I was chatting with outside supporters that I planned to start with a simple first article regarding Sangiovese.  Immediately one of the members of the test circle beamed with an infectiously warm smile and confessed that Sangiovese was one of his favorite varietals.  The stories that followed of gatherings with friends, casual rustic meals at home during the week with his spouse and further expanse on the easy pairing ability of the varietal, confirmed my own suspicions regarding my future reading audience.  My own personal preference for my first article sat squarely with Benessere’s Sangiovese as many years ago I realized that I did have a palate for red wine and that it did not have to be Cabernet Sauvignon.  Similarly, my learning experience came in the company of a close friend after an afternoon of riding shotgun in her convertible Saab past the vineyards in the summer sun and culminated in the discovery of good Sangiovese wine.  To date, more often than not, I hear people share their “wine stories” with particular fondness when Sangiovese is involved.   It may still be simple dinners with good friends or perhaps it is to recreate travel or study abroad in Italy.  Regardless of the reason, it is more often than not that Sangiovese makes its way to the glass with a warm reminiscent smile.

Here, the web site is still a few months off from its third birthday.  Nevertheless, opening and featuring a bottle of Benessere’s 2005 Sangiovese is a delight and primed with surprise.  I have not revisited the vintage in well over a year and the vintage now is about seven years old.   Benessere’s Sangiovese (provided that the vintage was a good harvest year) tends to drink well for about ten years, as long as you have cellared or stored the wine properly.   It is a rare find to be able to add an affordable Sangiovese to your collection and find that it has such aging potential.   In this case, high quality grapes are used, the talents of an exceptional winemaker were incorporated and a well-crafted wine emerged.

The bottle was opened with great anticipation and in traditional style of pouring a few ounces while actually cooking.  The anticipation stems largely from curiosity to determine “where” the 2005 vintage has “gone” over the course of bottle-aging.  It is a delight to open an older vintage of a favorite wine and see where it has gone, how it has matured and how it has grown.  Obviously, years of memories have accompanied this vintage.  No matter when it has been opened in the past, the vintage has been different.   Over the passage of time, the wine reveals itself differently, slowly. Just as you think that you know everything about this vintage, it surprises you and reveals new dimension and elements in its flavor profile.

In the glass, the wine shows the evidence of aging as it is beginning to thin at its edges, showing a lighter ruby shade of red.  This is compatible with a natural progression of elegance that similarly is reflected by a more evolved bouquet and flavor profile.  The bouquet of the 2005 Sangiovese is slightly candied and bewitchingly floral, much like red rose petals.  Texturally, the wine falls back across the palate gently emulating a soft petal-like texture.  The characteristic plum fruit found in Benessere’s Sangiovese is now breathlessly sugared, with slight notes of lavender and accompanied by a gentle cherry cola finish.

 The 2005 vintage of Benessere’s Sangiovese presently reveals that it is capable of sophisticated food pairings (should you desire).  While it could be paired with a fancier meal, it does intuitively pair alongside more simple and rustic cuisine.   Given that I was requested to make a specific recipe this week, the 2005 Sangiovese pairs natively with:

1)      Roasted Red Pepper Italian Sausage Pan Lasagna; and

2)     Simple Steamed Brussel Sprouts.

Historically, each week’s article involves one of my original recipes.   As I have a future cookbook in mind, the recipes are not published here.   This past weekend I received a request to make something from a specific recipe by the folks at America’s Test Kitchen and the recipe is also something that is quite manageable for a weeknight dinner.   Similarly, we find ourselves in that slightly awkward time period where winter has not quite ended and spring has not officially begun.  Such seasonal transition can present an odd lingering for comfort food yet accompanied by a distinct desire for bright, fresh or lighter flavors.  

America’s Test Kitchen has a recipe for one skillet lasagna.   I elected to do a variation using roasted red peppers and Italian sausage.   Red peppers, onion, garlic and red pepper flakes are sautéed in the pan before adding Italian sausage.  Lasagna noodles are broken into two-inch pieces and placed atop the mixture before pouring a blended, chopped mixture of whole canned tomatoes over the ensemble. Covered with a lid, the mixture is allowed to simmer on the stove top.   After the requisite time passes, moderate cheese is added and drops of ricotta cheese are added across the top of the mixture.

It is amazing how tantalizing something so simple and straightforward can appeal on a Monday night.   The recipe also fits our seasonal weather as it is garnished with chopped fresh basil before serving which allows for an automatic fresh tribute to spring and flavorfully.   To tie to the basil and the spicy nature of the dish, fresh brussel sprouts are quickly steamed.

The result is an easy ensemble that is capable of invoking truly rustic flavors while remaining true to everyone’s desires for the official arrival of spring.  The tomato sauce is sweet but with zip and the chopped fresh basil is so aromatic that any sense of “grass clippings” is quickly dismissed due to a greater desire for spring and produce growing seasons to begin.

When a well-aged Sangiovese such as Benessere’s 2005 vintage is paired alongside simple, rustic Italian cuisine, the combination brings a mystical element with it that is capable of transporting you to the European hills from which the varietal originated.  It is in moments such as these that dining becomes an easy conversation and an experience.  The tribulations of the weekday dissipate and the dreaming again commences.  A landscape easily appears and anything seems possible again.

Everyone seemingly anticipates spring earlier this year.  With the official commencement of spring only three weeks away, the anticipation of its arrival is palpable.  The birds seem to chirp louder and faster, humans have a noticeable spring in their step and local garden centers cannot wait to plant vegetable garden ideas in your head.  Similarly, new growth appears all around, as tulips and daffodils push their way up and onto the scene.  It is apparent that a clean slate is right around the corner and life is about to bound forward.

As floral aromas fill the air from budding trees to flowering blossoms on the ground, look to Viognier as a welcoming white varietal.  While I generally prefer consuming white wines in the warmer summer months, there is something special about enjoying Viognier in the month leading up to spring and the months thereafter.  The immediate answer that will spring forth from budding wine connoisseurs is that Viognier is readily known for its distinct floral perfume.  While the varietal is decidedly aromatic, it is not overwhelmingly so  such that you feel destined for a ladies’ garden club lunch.  The other answer is that the varietal is often recognized for a fuller feeling in the mouth and accompanied by more spice than other white wine varietals.  Due to this second component, it is sensually a good varietal to transition the palate from the drinking of heavier red wine (which largely occurs during winter) and instead festively open the cellar door to the future possibilities of enjoying white wines and later rosés.

Emilio Estevez and Sonja Magdevski of Casa Dumetz in Malibu offer a Viognier presently as their only white wine.  While at first glance this may seem unique even for a small artisan winery like theirs, the logic is readily clear once you realize the origin of the fruit sourced.  As discussed in a prior August article on this site, Casa Dumetz has smartly established a relationship with the owners of the Tierra Alta Vineyard, located in Santa Barbara County, California.  The owners of the vineyard are growers only (which means that Casa Dumetz should be able to consistently source a steady supply of quality fruit) and the vineyard itself is unique in nature (due to climate, geography and soil).   The same vineyard is supplying Casa Dumetz with other varietals of grapes which in turn become the winery’s rosé, sparkling wine, Grenache and Syrah.    The result is, save for the Pinot Noir grapes which are grown in their own Malibu yard, that Casa Dumetz can create a consistent quality and flavor profile for the wines in its portfolio because of its reliable and intelligent relationship with this particular vineyard (for more specific information regarding the Tierra Alta Vineyard, please reference the article “Summer Lovin’ Syrah Rosé” on this web site).

Casa Dumetz’s 2010 Clementina Viognier cleverly captures the essence of California springtime in a bottle.  Outfitted with a screw cap, fresh vibrant aromas of stone fruit and flowers immediately emerge.   Once poured into the glass, the wine offers an enchanting perfume of white nectarine traced with aromas of sugared almonds.   In the mouth, the 2010 Clementina Viognier deliciously rolls back like a warm setting California sun.  Flavors of white nectarine, apricot and yellow peach unfold, while accompanied by caramel ribbons.  To create depth, as any good Viognier does, the palate is tickled by ginger spice both at the front and on a revisit with the finish.   Given the calcareous soil from which these Viognier grapes hail, it is easy to understand why this Rhone varietal shows off far more vibrantly than when grown in other regions.   It is a reminder of the sunny disposition of Southern California and the casual feel of the state’s Central Coast.

Food pairing is often recommended when consuming Viognier.   If grown in California, the alcohol content can often be high for a white wine (in this case, it is 14.5%).  While Viognier grapes prefer warmer climates and a longer growing season, the varietal is fickle in that if it is left to ripen too long it can become overly perfumed and with an extremely high alcohol content.   Thus, when grown in California, the grape must stay on the vine long enough to fully ripen and yet balance the risk of over-exposure to heat.   So often in California, it is not uncommon to find a balanced well-made Viognier which also yields a higher than anticipated alcohol content.

This aspect regarding Viognier, however, should not deter one from pairing cuisine.   Viognier is readily recognized for pairing with slightly acidic dishes, Asian cuisine and a bevy of seasonal spring vegetarian dishes.   With this in mind, this week’s menu hosts:

• Brussel Sprout Egg Rolls with Spiced Apricot Dipping Sauce.

If you are like me, you can eat fresh seasonal brussel sprouts by the pound.  Whether steamed or shaved into salads, these guys have a delicious spring flavor peppered with a natural mustard flavor.  For the fussy eater or for the creatively inclined, grate them into egg rolls.

First, naturally sweet baby carrots are finely grated.   They are grated first and set aside on a paper towel to absorb some of the liquid that is immediately released from the carrots.  This will help keep the vegetable filling from becoming too soggy.   Next brussel sprouts are coarsely grated.   Minced water chestnuts and garlic are added next before sliced fresh scallions are added.  Quickly heating the vegetable mixture in a covered sauté pan for three minutes over a medium heat allows the contents to crisp without burning.   Next a sauce of Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, ginger, cayenne pepper and other ingredients is mixed to gently toss and coat the vegetables.   With egg roll wrappers ready, the filling is incorporated and the egg rolls are made.   Rather than fry, the egg rolls are sprayed with a non-stick cooking spray before being tucked into a hot oven to bake and crisp.  These egg rolls emerge from the oven ready to welcome spring with their naturally fresh flavors.

To serve along side, apricot preserves serve as a starting base to create a sauce that incorporates Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, water, red chili pepper flakes and ginger.  To add color it and the plate is garnished with chopped scallions.

Paired with the wine, the fresh spring vegetable flavors dance whimsically with the Viognier’s stone fruit and ginger spice.  Similarly the spiced apricot dipping sauce ties directly to the wine’s fruit and spice.   The combination is delightful and while enjoyed in the company of good friends on a weekend afternoon, it will make spring seem all the closer.