The summer of 2012 is gone and passed in the blink of an eye.  It was loaded with adventures, activities, produce, regional cheeses, family and friends.  We now find ourselves in October, which for some may involve cooler autumn temperatures but for many of us it includes misleadingly warm afternoons as if to convince us that summer might be here to stay.   Nevertheless, for those in school rooms, offices or simply at home finding that the daylight hours are increasingly shorter, we all sit with lingering looks out windows wondering how long blissful warm afternoons will last.  School terms begin with the classic essay regarding what did one do over the summer and fittingly, over the next several articles I will show you just that. 

Prepare yourself for essays on summer food pairings that can chameleon themselves to charm autumn menus.   Learn how rosy rosé wines can cheer a warm fall afternoon.  Explore new wine regions whether it is down the California coast or a cross-country jaunt to leaf-peeping New England.   When wine and food is involved, no matter the locale or the season there is plenty to learn and your palate evolves in the journey if you let it.*

Peaches and blueberries, for example, are wonderful summer fruits.   No matter where folks live in the United States they wait for these gems to come into season at their local farmer’s markets.   If you were thrifty and decided to freeze, can or preserve any of these summer delights, autumn is a wonderful time to bring these two fruits together into a dessert and change its sweet summer profile to one fitting for fall. 

This summer I was snooping in my brother’s kitchen.  I was looking for ingredients and determining what I could find.   He had a bottle of one of my favorite picks for Muscat Blanc by Markham Vineyards set out on the counter.  Of course, the easy pick is a dessert laden with fresh summer peaches to accentuate the dessert wine’s natural fresh picked stone fruit flavors.  However, as luck would have it, there were not enough peaches for a pie.  Not enough ingredients for cream puffs that I featured from two summers ago.   However, there were fresh blueberries and lots of them.   And while there was not proper equipment, ingredients or time for true pastry making, this surrogate kitchen was primed and set for cobbler making.

Peach-Blueberry Cobbler

Putting together blueberries and peaches creates a sweet fruit dessert, however, it has the ability to transcend into a much richer profile.  Not much sugar was required, but using cinnamon and nutmeg, this cobbler took off with a soul-warming zing.  Similarly today, if thoughtfulness is incorporated, the nutmeg can take a greater stage in the recipe to make it a fitting dessert for fall occasions and give some breathing room from the bombarding onslaught of pumpkin and molasses driven autumnal delights.   It allows one to savor summer for just a little bit longer, a form of denial by dessert, yet similarly it fills your kitchen with those wonderful warm aromas that we so often associate with fall.

 

 

But what about the wine?   Wine is a crucial element here and of course to all of the articles on this web site from the past three years.

Muscat is one of those grapes that is naturally sweet.  It simply has higher sugar content and when it is made into wine, it appears as a dessert or aperitif wine.   Historically, I was never a fan of dessert wines.  They simply were too sweet if the winemaker in question went the “cloyingly sweet” route.  Markham Vineyards, located in the historic Laurent winery just north of downtown St. Helena, however, has traditionally made a Muscat Blanc that is not overly sweet, but with just a kiss of sugar to invoke memories of freshly picked summer stone fruit.

While the Muscat Blanc may pair perfectly with peaches, it does not necessarily pair as swimming with cinnamon and nutmeg spices or blueberries.  But why would it be paired with this dessert?  

This is a cultural nuance where the true purpose of dessert wines comes forth.   Dessert wines are meant to be sipped.   As such, they can be used as a palate cleanser.   While slowly working your way through a dessert such as a Peach-Blueberry Cobbler, once the food has left your mouth, a sip of dessert wine will cleanse the palate.  It functions to add a hint of sweetness coupled with a refreshing pause before you are ready to approach the cobbler again.

And as for my brother, he can relive this dessert again and test its propensity for an autumn menu.   I am fairly certain that my hand-scrawled recipe from that random summer afternoon is still resting in a basket on his kitchen counter.   Cheers!

*Starting this week and onward, please check other tabs on the site (SLO Vine, Rocky Mountain Vine and the new New England Vine) to learn about new wines from areas outside of Napa Valley and what makes them so deliciously different!

As summer switches into gear, backyard gardens look big and lush.  Produce is just starting to ripen:  a tomato here, a zucchini there, a handful of sugar snap peas today, bulbous spring onions tomorrow.  Backyard produce has not commenced bountiful delivery yet and with the sporadic harvest of this or that, all that remains sitting on the vine seems like a way for Mother Nature to taunt us.  Looking at lush green leaves on green beans and sugar snap pea plants, those are edible and make interesting salads with stone fruit arriving at the local produce stand.  However, as I focus in on the garden looking at blooms here or there, one does begin to ponder, “Is it edible or is it not?”

Many flowers that are found in or bordering vegetable gardens are edible.  Nasturiums are widely known for being edible as they sport a pepper-like, if not mustard, flavor.  Surprisingly day lilies are edible, along with pansies and Johnny jump-ups.  Before you race to the backyard looking for a meal, however, there are a few recommendations to keep in mind.  First, do go to the public library and check out a reliable source on edible flowers.  While many are edible, there are plenty which are not.  Similarly they will let you know when they are edible or if prepared differently may not be edible.  Second, be mindful to pick male flowers (particularly with vegetable flowers) so that the female flowers can actually produce the vegetable that you are hungrily awaiting.  Third, when picking said male flowers, be mindful to not pick all or from one area particularly.  This will again stamp out vegetable production.  Fourth, if you use commercial fertilizers or pesticides on your garden, the flowers will be inedible for obvious toxicity reasons.  Finally, while this may be common sense, please remember that if you did not plant it, the flower (or produce) is not yours.  My good friend James lamented the other day that a man simply hopped off his bike, sat down adjacent to James’ flower bed and began to munch on day lilies as an impromptu lunch and brazenly returned again to feast on blooming yucca.

 

 

As I wandered the vegetable garden on Sunday morning, I noticed that I had an abundance of male zucchini flowers.   The female flowers were readily recognizable as they had small squash attached at the base and the male flowers had a long simply stem.   Surveying the garden, I realized that there were about 12 flowers that I could pick to use for this week’s article.   Squash blossoms are one of the first things that are harvested from a summer vegetable garden and I wait all year until this point to reap their soft subtle flavors that capture the essence of this stage of the garden’s growth in June.  It is a flavor that is organic to your garden and your soil; it ties you sensually to the earth.

For those who love squash blossoms but do not garden, you know what a challenge it is to find these flowers at your local farmer’s market (and similarly how early you have to arrive to find them and be prepared to use them that very afternoon in a culinary “beat the clock” fashion).  Yet for a few dollars, whether you start from seed or established plant, squash blossoms can grace your table effortlessly and entertain even the most impromptu guest.  The flavor of freshly picked squash blossoms precisely before using them in a dish is unparalleled.

Cleaning the squash blossoms is tricky business as it requires a gently and patient touch.  Careful to not break the petals, the flower is gently opened to be washed.  Aside from removing the pistil, also clean out any pollen and watch for small ants inside the flower (which also need to be removed).   Once they dry on a paper towel, these flowers are ready to be filled with your favorite ingredients or used in other recipes.

As mentioned earlier, squash blossoms have a delicate flavor.  It is no surprise then that they pair beautifully with sparkling wine.  The bubbles in sparkling wine allow delicate flavors found in wine and food pairings to take center stage.  There are several recipes in Mexican cuisine which feature the squash blossom as its star ingredient, however, I decided that for a summer Sunday afternoon, why not be inspired by Italian cuisine.   The Italians are known for pairing their sparkling wine (Prosecco) with fried stuffed squash blossoms.  Having decided upon a method of preparation, I next selected Chandon’s sparkling Etoile Brut to pair with the pending meal.

Chandon’s Etoile has a slightly sweeter, deeper flavor of Fuji apple, candied ginger, apricot and almond.  Its bouquet similarly offers aromas of almond, honey and buttered toast.   On a summer afternoon, sparkling wine is a terrific treat.  If your weather is cooler, the bubbles are crisper.  If your summer is warmer, the bubbles enliven a heavy palate and encourage warm, heavy, rich flavors in the food and wine to tumble forth.  You simply cannot go wrong.

Fried Stuffed Squash Blossoms with Roasted Tomato-Garlic Red Sauce

Returning to the squash blossoms, I have carefully elected to combine ricotta cheese with a variety of herbs and chopped scallions.  Both the scallions and herbs were freshly picked from the garden.  When selecting herbs, it is best (i) to remember the nuances of the wine that is being paired and (ii) to contemplate the dish as a whole and settle upon what message the herbs are to deliver.   In this case, the squash blossoms are a delicate flavor to which the other ingredients should play a supporting role.  Focusing largely on fresh lemon thyme, the herb mixture will remain light and lively.  Thyme is used to diversify the flavor along with a bit of minced fresh oregano and dill.  The combination of these herbs is not only refreshing on the palate, but they are pleasant aromatically, too.  One of the best ways to determine if your herb mixture is balanced is to allow you nose to lead your way.  The ricotta is allowed to drain in a colander so that excess moisture will not wilt or weight down the squash blossoms.  This small, yet crucial, step can be done while you mince your herbs and finish your other prep work.   The herbs are carefully folded in followed by minced scallions from the garden.   The blossoms next are gently filled and set upon a plate. 

Up next is the batter.   Batter preferences vary but in order to allow squash blossoms to show off their delicate appearance, corn starch is used with an equal part of flour.  Similarly, the batter should be runny (not thick or lumpy) so after working in an egg, some of the sparkling wine is used as well.   Using sparkling wine ties the dish flavorfully to the wine pairing making the chef’s job that much easier.  However, when sparkling wine is added to a batter, it makes it extremely light.  The result is perfect as the batter fries to a light consistency (lighter than a highly perfected tempura).

While it would be tempting to eat these immediately, there is a wonderful roasted tomato and garlic sauce simmering on the stove.  A few red pepper flakes were added to give some spice and dimension to the sauce but towards the end, a bit of the sparkling wine found its way into the pot.  I simply love to add white wine to a rich red tomato sauce.  It naturally sweetens it without the addition of unnecessary sugar.  This rich roasted tomato sauce is meant to be more of a garnish on the plate and augment the stuffed squash blossom.

The sauce is drizzled on the plate and the squash blossoms are placed on top and garnished with a bit of chopped fresh chives from the garden.

Similarly, dress the table and the plate with what is blooming around your home.  This step helps to awaken the senses and seal memories of time and place.  In the garden, marigolds are thriving to ward off pests.  Three are snipped to accent the plate along with tiny flowers from cilantro and oregano which are racing to seed.  These small white flowers each deliver a powerful aromatic punch of its respective herb.   This is another simple way to prep the diner to taste and experience wine (since what one tastes is largely influenced by what one smells). 

Finally, using antique china, silver and crystal is fun on a Sunday afternoon.  When the table is situated in the shade it is effortless to while away the hours under the trees while sipping sparkling wine and nibbling on your garden’s present bounty.

 

For anyone who has grown grapes, made wine or for any length of time simply lived adjacent to the wine industry, the heart and the base of winemaking is agriculture.  Our culture for generations has associated wine consumption with finery, celebration and at times, elitism.   But at the end of the day, the grapes that make the wine that you drink come from one common source around the world:  the land.  

 

Similarly, if you garden, grow produce or grow grapes, you realize that not only is the land integral to your bounty but you become keenly aware that your interaction with the land affects its productivity for you, your neighbors, your community and for countless generations beyond.   What you put into the soil affects its chemistry and quality (not always for the better) and what you grow may cross-pollinate with your neighbor’s attempts.  You may attract helpful insects or you may attract harmful pests. 

 

When you begin to not just understand but comprehend this cycle, you realize the honor of working within a much greater system and contributing to its balance.  Regardless of whether your experience is failure or success, there is bountiful knowledge to be learned and time is your greatest asset as the educational process is seemingly endless.

 

It is no surprise then that winemaking is a much bigger process than growing grapes, putting juice in a bottle and releasing a delicious wine.  When looking at smaller family-owned wineries, the consumer has a unique opportunity to get closer to the winery’s process.  From simple observation and often visiting tasting rooms, the consumer can witness the winery’s culture and how it does its own dance in conjunction with the land that delivers the grapes that the winery needs for its own commercial existence.

 

Over the past year and a half, I have had the opportunity to explore the wines that Casa Dumetz Winery (“Casa Dumetz”) has been releasing.  During this time, its wine portfolio has more than doubled and the horizon yields endless possibilities for winemaker Sonja Magdevski and her fiancé, Emilio Estevez.  While Emilio and Sonja grow their own estate Pinot Noir grapes in Malibu (located in Los Angeles County), the majority of their grapes are sourced from the Santa Ynez Valley (more specifically, through a special relationship with the Tierra Alta Vineyard), in Santa Barbara County.  With its rapid success and growth, Casa Dumetz decided to open a tasting room to the public on December 2, 2011.

 

 

While it would have been simpler to mention the tasting room in a prior article featuring the wines and food pairings that I create, I frankly wanted to visit the tasting room myself first.  The desire to visit the tasting room was largely motivated by my own observations, understanding and knowledge of Sonja’s winemaking operations and zest for life.  For example, she and Emilio are firmly committed to growing their own produce.  Raised bed gardens adorn their lawn, grape vines dress the property and produce abounds such that they are living their lives seasonally, sustainably and in harmony with the land.   When such a commitment is readily apparent in their own personal lives, it is a good hunch that their tasting room will deliver an equally clear message.

 

 

The tasting room for Casa Dumetz is not located near Malibu but instead farther north up Highway 101 in historic Los Alamos, in Santa Barbara County, California.  Upon reading the location choice, the casual visitor may be puzzled. However, the reason for the choice is abundantly clear.   First, Santa Barbara County is where the majority of the grapes are grown for Casa Dumetz’ wines. Spending time in closer proximity to the actual vineyard and the grapes allows the winemaker (Sonja) to have a greater understanding of what is happening regularly with the weather, which directly influences the acidity, sugar and alcohol level in the grapes for a particular vintage.  This helps Sonja continue to learn and grow with her winemaking even though the Tierra Alta vineyard is managed by John Belfy of Buona Terra Farming.  Second, once you exit off Highway 101 for Los Alamos and make your way past vineyards to the historic town’s main street, it becomes visually and sensually clear why Sonja chose this location.

 

The feel of artisanry is in the air.  Your car naturally slows so as to not miss anything in this tiny historic California town.  For those who are originally from California, you instantly recognize that Los Alamos is still a tiny slice of true California culture and representative of how California culture was decades (if not generations) ago.

 

Artisanry is important to Sonja and it is clearly reflected in the care and quality of her winemaking.  Her tasting room also represents her commitment to artisanry.  She has said,

“I romanticize a time in our country and world when every corner of it had its own regional foods, drinks, music and culture that defined who the people were and where they came from. Our wine is like that and as much as possible we try and do live like that. I want the tasting room to be a reflection of other people locally producing interesting art:  whether it is jewelry, or the handmade wine boxes with fresh cedar shavings. All of this is important because it is not only an expression of where that person lives locally but also where that person has been and the stories they listened to and learned along the way. Local artists have an integrity that I appreciate.”

 

Another similar benefit of local artisanry is that it folds integrally into a place’s local culture and transcends through its residents.   The people are friendly in Los Alamos.  It is not uncommon to hop out of your car and have a stranger smile and say “hello”.   People are willing to answer questions, help you and more importantly welcome you into their community.  Sonja similarly found this when she decided to locate her tasting room on Los Alamos’ main street.  Similarly, when I visited their tasting room alone, I had no problem integrating into conversations with other people. I chose to stop by an hour before the room was scheduled to close and yet suddenly a wave of ten to fifteen people stopped in to taste wine, have a glass, chat and share their experiences from the day.  Within minutes, I did not feel “alone” but instead felt like I was part of a community and more importantly, welcomed with a sense of belonging.

 

 

This cultural sense of generosity and embrace ties intimately to Casa Dumetz’ tasting room as it has been opened under the name “Babi’s Tasting Room” in honor of Sonja’s late grandmother.  “Babi” means grandmother in Macedonian (which is Sonja’s heritage).  According to Sonja,

“She [Babi] was a woman who lived life on her own terms.  She understood life and its complexities with an acuteness that few people possess.  She was not flawless. She gave her heart and soul to everyone.  She forgave everyone.  And, most importantly, she truly enjoyed sharing a glass of wine or homemade whiskey with friends and family, along with the delicious food she always made.  She taught me to let go and enjoy the moment, an art form which I still haven’t mastered.”

The décor of the tasting room offers plenty to study and contemplate.   It is clear that thought and effort went into designing the space and further ensuring that the ambiance is warm and welcoming.   There is ample seating, which varies from stools at a long tasting bar, to small tables and chairs for gathering and comfortable plush seating along the outer edges of the room.  Everywhere you turn there is something to study and uniquely, something or someone from which to learn.

 

 

While I was in the tasting room, a young woman entered and called out that she was returning a book.  As it turns out, Sonja has uniquely included a “lending library” of books.  These books can vary in topics from winemaking, Macedonian textiles, growing your own produce to straw bale homes.  Again, reflecting a commitment to artisanry but instead firmly encouraging learning.  Sonja personally loves to learn and claims that she is notorious for asking a never-ending litany of questions.  She claims that Emilio from time to time has to nudge her in order to cue her to slow her questions for fear that the recipient may feel interrogated.

 

 

Realizing that most visitors do not intend to sit down and read a book while exploring their wines, Sonja encourages visitors to borrow books (or contribute some of their own) from the lending library.   When the book is returned, Sonja presently extends a ten percent discount off of your wine purchases.  Your purchases of course leave the winery in a handmade burlap bag which fits with Sonja’s commitment to environmental sustainability and the culture of Los Alamos.

 

If you happen to plan to return your book on a Friday evening to the tasting room and have called in advance to reserve a seat, you are in for an even greater treat.  Sonja has uniquely started a Friday night lecture series aptly titled, “Words to Live By”.  Purchase a glass of wine or a bottle to share with friends, sit back, listen and learn about topics ranging from art, gardening, vintning, sustainable living and farming, among others.  

 

Perhaps the best educational treat of all is that Sonja herself is in the tasting room most days.   Sonja states that local artists by nature have to work and interact with their customers directly.  Sonja also presently mans the tasting bar, interacts with her patrons face to face and learns by extension of this interaction.   She maintains her own artisanal integrity as a result and the patron gets the very unique opportunity to interact with the actual winemaker.   Since Sonja is such an enthusiastic interrogator, rest assured that she is an equally welcoming recipient of questions, too.

 

It is easy to feel like you are part of something when visiting Casa Dumetz’ tasting room.  Your mind and your own horizons expand right alongside Casa Dumetz.  Do not be mistaken, however, your presence is also adding to the mix.  You are bringing your stories, your experiences and your journey to the mix.   The people who surround you are equally curious and learn from you.  The greater joy is the intuitive sense that you are also contributing to something with greater cultural meaning in this tiny historic Californian town.

*Casa Dumetz Wines’ “Babi’s Tasting Room” is open to the public on Thursdays 12 p.m. to 7 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and located at 448 Bell Street, Los Alamos, California.  (Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday the tasting room is open by appointment only).

 

Why yes!  Even though it is late May and most of the United States this very week is heating up to encourage an early arrival of hot summer days, I do say “Cabernet” . . .  I just say “Cabernet Franc” with unbridled enthusiasm.

 

Hot weather screams for crisp white wines, the icy nature of chilled rosés (fruity or dry) or the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine.   The mere thought makes me long for shady late warm afternoons with a plate hosting some simple seasonal fruit or sugar snap peas from the garden, a bit of cheese and nuts upon which to nibble.

 

Yet not everyone enjoys the traditional summer wines and some simply are staunch red wine drinkers.   Even on a warm evening while a barbeque grill slowly smokes in the backyard, these wine aficionados will lovingly swirl and sip those red wines.   I cannot fault them (or even those who dedicatedly isolate themselves indoors with the air conditioning blasting just to enjoy a good Cabernet Sauvignon with a summer steak).   Despite their die hard commitment to the summer consumption of red wine, I do recommend less tannin.   Tannins are drying and frequently red wines that hold them in abundance are lumbering and heavy (which is not comforting in warm summer weather).   Nor do tannic wines pair well with spicy food which can frequently emerge from summer barbeque grills.

 

There are, however, a number of red wines that are less tannic and ironically, one such red wine in particular that can romance the sentiment of June:   Cabernet Franc.   If you have yet to experience a bottle consisting of 100% of this varietal, you have been missing out.  Cabernet Franc often is a party in your mouth.  It flirts on the front of the palate and then entertains vividly and dynamicly across the middle of the palate.   While not known for a long lingering finish (like Cabernet Sauvignon), it also does not simply shut off and fall into an abyss either.   Similarly, Cabernet Franc can be just as elegant and sophisticated as Cabernet Sauvignon and if you are fortunate enough, you will find a winery that will introduce you to an enduring love affair.

 

Casa Nuestra Winery (“Casa Nuestra”) is a small family-owned winery located in St. Helena, Napa Valley, which produces Cabernet Franc wines which will enamor your palate from the first sip.  The winery, which commenced operation in 1979, began its Cabernet Franc program in 1986.   Since that date, the 2008 vintage of the winery’s Cabernet Franc is the most concentrated yet.  Only 354 cases were produced of this vintage and given Casa Nuestra’s reputation among locals in Napa Valley, it is a surprise that this vintage has not yet sold out.  The winery itself makes almost all of its wines from its organic vineyards and operates in three solar powered buildings.  The winery is also known for specializing in wines of special interest so the true connoisseur can explore a variety of varietals that are not standard fare at other wineries in Napa Valley.  If you are in Napa Valley now, call in advance to visit the folks at Casa Nuestra (meaning “our house”) and you will be able to taste a wide variety of hand-crafted unique varietals, including the 2008 Cabernet Franc.

 

Casa Nuestra hands down makes my favorite Cabernet Franc.  It is not only a party, but it is like a top notch symphony accompanies it on the palate.  Two summers ago, I featured the 2006 vintage on this site and since then, it has been my habit to pick up a couple of bottles the winery’s vintage and tuck them away to cellar.   Given that the 2008 vintage is still offered for sale on Casa Nuestra’s web site, there is still opportunity to enjoy what I am about to describe.

 

First, the wine’s appearance is romantic.  It is deep plum yet has a rich ruby edging.   Depending on when and where you are enjoying the wine, the light will catch and reflect in this edging and it accentuates its jewel-like aspects further.   Next, the bouquet brings rapture to one’s olfactory senses:  lively and fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherries are accompanied by cola and gentle sprinkle of anise.  The bouquet of the wine is tender on the nose, yet subtly coaxing.  Finally, in the mouth, this 2008 Cabernet Franc does not disappoint.   Rich full fruit lumbers across the mid-palate in a wake of velvety texture.  The front of the palate is splashed with delicious cherry cola before the wine explodes onto the mid-palate with cherries becoming roasted in flavor coupled with ripe blackberries and hints of caramelized Vidalia onion.  The wine finishes leaving your palate mesmerized and lingering over chewy candied black cherry.  The wine in its bottle tastes as though it has ripened all on its own, affixed to the vine in the St. Helena summer sun.

 

Given that Cabernet Franc is not recognizably tannic and has a known propensity to pair well with earthy flavors, this week’s menu hosts:

 

• Roasted Mushroom Gorgonzola Potatoes Au Gratin

 

Potatoes are an ingredient that must be paired carefully with wine.   Given the high starch content, this can often distract from the wine and throw the wine’s flavors off for your palate.  Nevertheless, if the potato is simply an ingredient and properly augmented in a structured dish, it can become a meal that can pair with less tannic red wines such as Cabernet Franc.

 

In this week’s dish, I elected to present a varying structure of flavors to the traditional recipe of “potatoes au gratin”.   Thin slices of sweet red bell pepper constitute one layer.  Slices of white button and porcini mushrooms are roasted with garlic, sage, rosemary and thyme to create additional layers and the earthy flavors for which Cabernet Franc yearns.   Similarly, stepping away from the simple flavor of cream, a mild gorgonzola is integrated into the sauce that is layered between the layers.   To finish, the traditional sprinkling of fresh grated parmesan sits on top and is adorned with pieces of cooked applewood smoked bacon.   Again, the even the bacon ingredient is brought up a notch to bring in that earthy smoky flavor that will ultimately create depth in the dish as a whole.

 

For those who have met my golden retriever who has visited dog friendly wineries in Napa Valley and was featured on a local Bay Area television station, you can only imagine the torture she endured while this dish was baking in the oven.   A staunch lover of cheese, as this dish baked with the cheese, the herbs, the mushrooms and the bacon, my casual canine parked herself on the kitchen floor dutifully and whimpered in anticipation for the duration of the dish’s baking.

 

Who could blame my dog for whimpering when this emerges?

 

It is no surprise that given the ingredients that Cabernet Franc cozies right up to this dish.   Casa Nuestra’s 2008 Cabernet Franc found its place with this involved potatoes au gratin.   It heartily embraced the applewood smoked bacon, savory medley of herbs, the earthiness of the mushrooms and turned delicious sommersaults of flavor in the creaminess of the cheese.   And just like the 2006 vintage, the 2008 vintage confirms that applewood smoked bacon is its soulful food-pairing match.

 

Casa Nuestra’s 2008 Cabernet Franc is utterly delicious on its own and can be simply sipped and savored. It is a varietal that you want to linger with and get to know just a little bit better.  There is no rush with this 2008 Cabernet Franc (aside from the rush to obtain it).  It is a conversation piece and it can hold its own with a meal.  It shows a style and structure that only comes from the hand of a vintner at a small family-owned winery:  a winemaking hand that is not rushed by whim or public demand but in tandem with Mother Nature.

 

This week’s article admittedly was done on a lark.   A few weeks ago I was up early on a Sunday morning and had nothing pressing ahead on the day’s agenda.  With the luxury of a rare lazy Sunday morning at home and delightful warm weather outdoors, the back deck was simply too inviting to pass up for a brunch wine pairing.

 

Similarly, for far too long I have received requests from fans and friends alike to feature wine with brunch.   Any time brunch fare is requested, it is no secret that the requestor is hoping for a mimosa with which to toast the morning.   One friend in particular who has made this request is my friend, James, who is quite the avid cook himself with a particular talent for French cuisine.  James’ talent (aside from genuine interest) is also due to the long spans of time that he spent studying and living in France.  Rather than proceed towards a menu of traditional brunch fare, I elected to instead draw upon my own distinct aptitude with foreign cuisine.  Like James, I, too, spent several summers and a year living and studying in a foreign country.  As I have touched upon in the past in articles, my foreign study, however, was completed in Mexico.  

 

My first few summers as a young adult were spent in San Luis Potosi, Mexico, where I was fortunate enough to be surrounded by genuinely caring people who became long life friends such that decades later, our fond friendships remain in tact.  Similarly while spending time in San Luis Potosi, Mexico, I had the good accidental fortune to learn the foundation of authentic Mexican cooking.  This simple foundation was obtained spending countless afternoons parked in the family kitchen watching the household maids prepare sauces and salsas.  Quickly I processed that true authentic Mexican cooking has influence not only from the Spanish and native indigenous tribes, but also from the French.  Similar to the French, a quality slowly simmered sauce is often the base to many exquisite recipes.  Once you learn how to prepare a proper Mexican sauce (or salsa for that matter), that sauce can take you down any number of delicious possible culinary paths.   This week’s food pairing shows precisely that.

 

Returning to the topic of wine, however, why is it that sparkling wine pairs so well with Mexican food?   Frankly, it is due to its similarity to beer.   The wine’s bubbles present a wonderful crispness sprinkled with a necessary sweetness and balanced with a gentle presence of acidity.  Depending on the nature of the sparkling wine paired (for example, brut or extra brut), its light, crisp and slightly sweet nature will do a festive dance with the spices and chiles found in many Mexican dishes.   As a point of reference, nearly three summers ago, I published an article here on the site pairing a blanc de noirs sparkling wine with steak tacos.  The feedback was so resoundingly in agreement that my local Trader Joe’s promptly sold out of the very same wine due to the article (see, “For the Love of Bubbles”).

 

This week, the Brut Classic sparkling wine from Chandon located in Yountville, California, in Napa Valley, is featured.  Its affordability makes this wine a candidate for “everyday sparkling” and so for those with the traditional old school hang up that sparkling wine is only for celebrating, guess what?  Every day is worth celebrating.  Similarly, affordability often will make wine connoisseurs cringe but fear not, here quality was not sacrificed.  Instead the wine reflects a simple honesty in its identity.  It is crisp and dry, yet balanced.  It reflects a touch of sweetness in its apple and pear flavors while stamped with personality reflecting citrus spice.   Given its texture and flavor profile in the mouth, it will pair well with spicy, salty or creamy food.  Once you see what is in store menu-wise, it will logically follow why this wine becomes the perfect versatile candidate for a Sunday morning brunch Mexican-style.

 

To prep our sparkling for its pairing, rather than add commercial orange juice to create a mimosa, I elected to add the actual fresh juice of an orange which has a slight tanginess.   This is intentional to reflect an authentic Mexican touch but also to pair well with this week’s menu:

 

• Lonja-Inspired Poached Eggs in Smoky Chile Tomato Broth, Queso Fresco, Toasted Tortilla, and With Fresh Chives and Cilantro

 

As winter was mild, herbs returned naturally this year to the garden and all spring I have been enjoying an abundance of fresh cilantro in the garden.

 

 

Soon other vegetables will be arriving and by month-end will be influencing my pairing ideas.   Here is a sneak peek of lettuces, sugar snap pea vines and beet tops currently growing in the garden.

 

This week’s recipe is inspired by a classic brunch recipe that was served at La Lonja in San Luis Potosi, Mexico, while I was living in the city.  La Lonja is a gorgeous historic ballroom and high society club which was constructed in 1860 (meaning that to date it is 152 years old) and a place where the wedding receptions of some of my friends were held.

 

I was lucky to be in attendance of these events and so modifying this particular recipe to something more manageable for the home chef on a Sunday morning is of particular fond meaning to me.  It is a wonderful homage to a region of the world that embraced me when I was a young adult and that sparked an interest in me in cuisine and cooking.

 

In the traditional recipe, a sauce and broth is created using tomatoes, various chiles, onions, garlic, spices and water.   To simplify this, I used one of my own authentic sauces from the refrigerator as a quick starter base.   The sauce is a blend of roasted tomatoes, roasted garlic, chipotle chiles and adobo sauce.   After being blended, the sauce is simmered on the stove top in a bit of lightly-flavored olive oil to help bring it to the proper consistency and allow the flavors to meld.   This sauce can be used in a variety of ways (if you can resist slicing some queso fresco immediately and snacking on corn tortilla strips slathered in the sauce) and it can be easily stored in your refrigerator or frozen.   On this particular Sunday morning, it was easy to take a few spoonfuls of the smoky chipotle tomato sauce from the jar, add it to a medium frying pan, add one cup of water, stir and bring to a rolling boil.  This quickly makes a tomato broth.

 

Once the tomato broth is rolling, raw eggs are gently slid into the broth by a saucer and a lid is quickly placed over the pan to allow the eggs to poach.   Poaching the eggs only takes a matter of a few minutes.  During this time, fresh corn tortillas are sliced in half and quickly toasted on a griddle.   The tortillas are placed on the plate in a decorative manner and once the eggs are poached, they are gently placed a top of the tortillas and some of the tomato broth is drizzled over.

 

To finish the plate, queso fresco is crumbled over the eggs and the ensemble is garnished with fresh chopped chives and fresh chopped cilantro from the garden.

 

This colorful brunch dish delivers a punch of flavor and sensuous texture due to the poached eggs, the toasted tortillas and the creamy crumbled queso fresco.   One of the wonderful aspects of authentic Mexican cheeses is that they will hold up against heat and not instantly melt when placed atop a dish.  As a result, they can attractively function as a garnish at the same time.

 

The toasted fresh corn tortillas bring rustic flavor to the smoky flavor of the chipotles, tieing the two in separably together.  As the egg is poached, it releases a goohey yolk that adheres to the sauce, softening its bold spices and transitioning it artfully to the creamy, salty nature of the queso fresco.  There is no way to resist the flavor of recently chopped cilantro and chives which had only been picked from the garden moments beforehand.  Brunching on the back deck in the spring breeze with the aromas of the garden nearby and sipping your sparkling wine mimosa completes the atmosphere with a touch of casual refinery.

 

So when you have a lazy morning and the world is not rushing you to be anywhere, linger in the kitchen, tinker and dine “al fresco”.  Doing so gives a small slice of “vida” that is incomparable.