May 12 2010
Salacious Syrah
For those who read loyally, last week you may have noted that for the first time since the inception of the web site (nearly one year ago), there was not a new weekly article. Fear not, it was not a “slip” nor was it for lack of ideas. Rest assured there is not a run on wine in Napa Valley and there are plenty of lovely choices yet to feature for years to come. The reason is far simpler, benign and mundane: vacation. Vacation??? Yes, even my palate needed some proverbial “R and R”.
Granted, I live in Napa Valley. Napa Valley is certainly a vacation hot spot for most ranging from Bay Area locals looking for a quick getaway to adventurers visiting from abroad. It is hard not to envision Napa Valley as a quintessential lap of relaxation as we coast towards summer. Napa Valley is known for its warm sunny days, blooming flowers, top notch cuisine, sundries to delight every imagination and wine that seemingly flows in abundance. In fact, family members or friends who visit me here get a dreamy lazy look in his or her eye, settles in quickly to the slower pace of enjoying life and refers to my humble abode as “Rancho Relaxo”. I cannot say that I quibble with any of them.
But for all that is magical about Napa Valley and for every sensory turn that peaks the imagination, is it impossible to create just even a small corner of this in your neck of the woods? Never impossible, always within a grasp, these elements can be recreated to a degree wherever you are and with whomever you find yourself, if you only try.
After a week’s absence, my palate was ready to hop back into the saddle and with guests to entertain at the table, there was plenty of reason to show off with a nonstandard choice: Syrah. As those recall, last summer, I selected a gorgeously smooth French-style Syrah made from Spring Mountain fruit and boldly paired it with a North Carolina style barbeque menu. The food was a hit as it was sampled by many and those who tried it marveled at its seamless match with the featured Syrah. This week’s Syrah is certainly not made in a French style and in recent releases is far bolder and bigger (perhaps aligning it more closely with the California style). However, find it in an older vintage and this wine has plenty of personality poised with an aged element of refinery: Benessere Vineyard’s 2004 Syrah.
Opening the bottle and pouring the wine into glasses, as typical with bigger Syrah wines, the fruit greets the nose before your nose can even approach the glass. Nuances of blackberry jam, black currant, smoke, leather and a hint of clove teasingly tantalize the nose. On the palate, that same blackberry fruit follows with dashes of fresh ground black pepper. Intuitively, this wine would pair delightfully with dishes hosting wild game or duck, but the palate of my guests is far more casual. The wine, however, does present a slight tartness and present, albeit refined, tannins. Because of these last two elements, more thought needs to be involved with the food pairing and thus this week’s menu creatively hosts:
· Blue-Bacon Guacamole
One of the greatest accomplishments (in my opinion) is being able to pair an often complex or unique wine with something simple or even just an appetizer. In this case, believe it or not, guacamole pairs beautifully with an aged, otherwise game-oriented bold Syrah.
Clearly this guacamole is not an ordinary guacamole. Its layered ingredients purposefully add depth, fat, acidity, smoke and all-around scrumptious goodness to pair perfectly with Benessere Vineyards’ 2004 Syrah. Sustainability is at play as well as fresh chives are gathered from the patio to be chopped and added to the guacamole itself: which consists of mashed fresh avocados, along with freshly picked Meyer lemon, chopped fresh cilantro and some seasoning salt. Avocados are a heart-healthy fat which is helpful in balancing the tannins in the wine. Next, picking a medium flavored creamy blue cheese, it is crumbled atop the guacamole. Chopping vine ripened tomatoes and tossing in chopped cilantro, these are next added. Finally adding a sprinkling of apple wood bacon pieces and more chopped chives, the Blue-Bacon Guacamole is ready to be presented alongside some white corn tortilla chips.
Taken together, the Blue-Bacon Guacamole is sumptuous as salacious is the 2004 Syrah. The fat content of the avocado and the bacon simultaneously rope in the tannins of the Syrah. The bacon also adds a slightly smoky component compatible with the smoke nuances in the wine. Recall the tartness in the wine? Again, the acidity of tomatoes works as an unsuspecting secret weapon to erase that tartness and permit dark berry fruit and pepper to inundate the palate. And what benefit does the creamy blue cheese crumble bring? Aside from protein, it creates depth of flavor and a naturally involved delicious flavor which holds up against the dark bold flavors of the 2004 Syrah. To finally add flavorful spunk, the freshly grown chives are tender yet vibrantly make the flavors overall pop in the Blue-Bacon Guacamole.
Aside from knowing how the ingredients function intentionally in the dish, the ultimate confirmation is that moment when a quiet hush falls upon the table, the appetizer readily disappears and with wine in hand, a settled dreamy smile of satisfaction befalls the table’s guests.
*Don’t forget to find the Fan Page on Facebook for “The Casual Connoisseur” and learn extra trivia, pairing ideas, information and wine availability (such as this week’s featured wine).
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