Apr 01 2010
Spring and Chenin Blanc
As Napa Valley prepares to wave goodbye to winter and revels at the wildflowers bursting along the edges of Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail, dreams of fresh, clean flavors spring forth and the palate begins to warm to white wines. Still not warm enough yet for the bright acidity and lemongrass nature of Sauvignon Blancs, one wine in particular made in an off-dry style suits those first weeks of spring: Chenin Blanc.
Chenin Blanc originates from (and still thrives in) the Loire Valley region of France. The Loire Valley region is a vast 625 miles which meanders along the Loire River. The Loire River itself begins its origin in the Rhone area of France and flows onward north, east and then southwesternly to ultimately reach the Atlantic Ocean. Two areas along the Loire River (Vouvray and Montlouis) are particularly renowned for producing award-winning Chenin Blanc. California, always hoping to compete with France’s winemaking endeavors, out planted France in the 1980’s with Chenin Blanc and back in those days, it was common to find such vines planted throughout Napa Valley. As American whim shifted to prefer Chardonnay, many of these plantings of Chenin Blanc were pulled to make room for other grapes. Today in Napa Valley it is a challenge to find Chenin Blanc made, let alone estate grown. However, just like any other wine, when it is made well, it is a treat and adds variance to one’s cellar collection and scope of food pairings.
Chenin Blanc (like Gewürztraminer) can be made dry or off-dry. The off-dry style will lend a slightly sweeter white wine which pairs intuitively with spicy food. While an off-dry Chenin Blanc might be described as “sweet”, it is really “semi-sweet” and for those who do not enjoy the overly sugary nature of most dessert wines, an off-dry Chenin Blanc can instead serve as the perfect aperitif or after-dinner wine. While next month I will feature an actual estate-grown Chenin Blanc which hails from special old vines, this week I am featuring a fun off-dry Chenin Blanc from a different winery (which does not use estate grown grapes).
Goosecross Cellars (“Goosecross”) in Yountville offers an off-dry Chenin Blanc which delights the palate with nuances of pear, honeydew melon and honeysuckle. While the grapes are not estate grown, they are from old vines in Napa Valley and year after year, this Chenin Blanc does not disappoint. The 2008 Chenin Blanc offers a blend of characteristic high acidity and sweetness. This sweetness is typical of off-dry Chenin Blanc and is akin to a sprinkle of sugar flirting with your palate. Given its high acidity, the wine presents a clean nature to the palate and its fruit flavors of predominant pear and mild pleasant finish of honeydew melon appropriately fit with the start of spring.
Given that the 2008 Chenin Blanc by Goosecross is off-dry, it will pair well with spicy food. For lovers of Thai food (such as chicken pad thai noodles), this is a simple straight-forward pick for such a food pairing. However, if you are looking for a dish which is equally clean in flavors to the wine paired, vegetarians and the health-conscience rejoice for this week’s menu holds:
· Vegetarian Stuffed Roasted Red Peppers
Red Peppers are the perfect vegetable to pair with an off-dry Chenin Blanc, such as that made by Goosecross. While they are spicy, they are not overwhelmingly so and the semi-sweet nature of the Chenin Blanc nicely cuts that spice. Once the peppers have been roasted over a gas flame, they are stuffed with a mixture of cooked brown rice, black beans, green onions, fresh-picked thyme from the garden, sautéed garlic and tomatoes, and the juice of a Meyer Lemon. To add tangy acidity, a bit of an herbed creamy chevre cheese is added to the mixture and atop the stuffed peppers. Once baked in the oven, they are ready to serve and the perfect accompaniment to the 2008 off-dry Chenin Blanc.
The result is a light, satisfying meal. As anticipated, the wine’s slight sweetness engages the spice of the roasted red pepper and garlic while simultaneously serving as a soul mate for the tangy and creamy nature of the herbed chevre. The addition of Meyer Lemon and fresh picked thyme to the brown rice mixture makes the flavors pop and the acidity of the tomato gives a subtle nod to the acidity in the Chenin Blanc made by Goosecross. The wine is not lost alongside the food by any means and instead surprises the palate with an unsuspected palate cleanser in the form of a fresh glimmering finish of pear and honeydew melon.
Given the light nature of the meal, it is imperative to note that the Goosecross 2008 Chenin Blanc pairs in the balanced respect of its alcohol content. With only an alcohol content of 11.7%, pairing a light meal with the wine will not leave you (or your dinner guests) on the floor after a glass or two. Instead, it is a near guiltless, clean meal and wine pairing which embraces the spirit of spring and all that bursts anew with life and hope.
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