A few weeks ago, I mentioned that Pinot Noir became vogue (and pricey) thanks to the movie “Sideways”.   An unfortunate casualty of that movie, however, was Merlot.    Most notably, the character Miles, an easily perceived wine snob, angrily states, “I am NOT drinking any f-ing Merlot,” in one scene of the movie.   Merlot has gotten a bad rap.  But you cannot honestly say these days that you do not drink it.   Merlot often quietly holds its integrity in many a Cabernet Sauvignon or Proprietary Red blend wine.  

On its own, if not made well, Merlot can deservedly be described as “flabby and weak”.    But if made well, Merlot can provide an elegant texture with lovely nuances of cocoa, spice, and berries.   As you taste more Merlot, you will recognize its individual characteristics, will find a good one and will realize that indeed Merlot is a wine to readily call upon in certain situations.  

A situation often appropriate for Merlot is dessert, particularly when involving baked goods.    Many people think of the sugary Muscat dessert wines or port to accompany desserts.   Certainly these wines often pair well, but with a word of caution:   it truly depends on the nature of the dessert being served.    If you have a sweet tooth and love a good rich chocolate-based dessert, a subtler wine like Merlot is the perfect accompaniment.  

If you are seeking to learn what the “next big thing” is in Napa Valley’s culinary world, it is “Annie the Baker”.    Annie Baker, under her newly minted business name “Annie the Baker”, quickly has become famous throughout Napa Valley and much of the Bay Area for creating cookies which emulate the texture and consistency of cookie dough.   Her cookies, as Annie likes to say, are “for those who love cookie dough more than the cookie.”    Her description is more than apt if you have had the good fortune to try her cookies.   Presently she makes four different recipes:    1) Oatmeal Double Chocolate Chip; 2) Toffee Milk Chocolate Chip; 3) Semi Sweet Chocolate Chunk; and 4) Peanut Butter with Mini Peanut Butter Cups.  

Knowing that I wanted to write about the unsung attributes of Merlot, I decided that it would be a perfect time to experiment and pair a wonderful Reserve Merlot from Havens Wine Cellars (“Havens”) with Annie the Baker’s sinfully delicious cookies.    In preparation for this pairing, I picked up from Annie some of her Oatmeal Double Chocolate Chip and Toffee Milk Chocolate Chip cookies.

Havens’ Reserve Merlot is a solid wine, ready to stand independent of its counterparts.   However, be not mistaken, this Merlot’s independence is akin to the “strong silent type”.    You never forget that it is there, but it does not aggressively demand the full attention of your taste buds.   Overall, this Reserve Merlot is poetically elegant.  On the nose, you will experience nuances of cocoa, warm spices, a hint of licorice and the smell of raspberry and plum.   As the wine rolls across the palate, its texture is velvety and smooth yet it presents a slight sensation of dust reminiscent of cocoa.    While having a glass of Havens’ Reserve Merlot, it is only natural to want to reach for a brownie or, better yet, a high quality cookie.

As I sit in the early evening hours of a fading warm sun, Annie’s Toffee Milk Chocolate Chip cookie sets forth flavors which melt seamlessly into Annie’s self-proclaimed “oohey-goohey” cookie dough sensation.    As I bite into this rich lump of cookie goodness, I cannot help but wonder if Annie should change the “oohey-goohey” reference to “Ohh-soo-good” because it truly embodies the decadent sensual experience of the cookie.    Her Oatmeal Double Chocolate Chip also exceeds your wildest expectations as you discover different spices in the cookie not present in traditional chocolate chip cookie recipes.   When paired with the Reserve Merlot, the spices in Annie’s cookie allow the fruit in the wine to shine through brightly.   As promised, you experience a heavenly cookie dough experience as you get closer to the center of the cookie.

These cookies are naturally good on their own.  Like many desserts there is no lack or want for sugar in your mouth.     The nice aspect about pairing Merlot in this setting, however, is that it will slightly offset the sugary experience and bring your palate closer to reality.   While Merlot may fail against bigger, spicier foods, this grape finds its destined arena with desserts and in such pairings brings a harmonious sense of balance to the palate.   Better yet, when you pair Havens’ Reserve Merlot with Annie the Baker’s cookies, the storyline is “elegance meets gourmet”, for this is not an average Merlot nor is this an ordinary chocolate chip cookie.    Pairing these two together presents a classic view through the famed window of Napa Valley’s style.

Annie is indeed the baker to watch and perhaps as you follow her journey she will become known as “Annie THE Baker”.   For this Casual Connoisseur, she already is and for the fellow connoisseurs out there, I am now letting you “in”, on the ground up.   

*If you are visiting Napa Valley, you can find Annie the Baker sold at both the Napa and St. Helena Farmer’s Markets.    Commercially, the cookies are also sold at NapaStyle in Yountville and at the Yountville Deli (located in the Ranch Market) also in Yountville.    Annie will also begin selling her cookies on Tuesday evenings at “Local’s Night” at the Oxbow Marketplace.