Sparkling wine is that wine that we inevitably reach for in a moment of celebration.   Yet there are so many varieties of varying sweetness to ultra dryness.   Depending on the grapes used, the amount of sugar added and the dryness of the sparkling, a wide world of varying cuisine can be paired with sparkling wine:   cheeses, Mexican food, Asian food, Indian food, seafood, brunch, salads, desserts and the list goes on and on.   Couple the wide cuisine pairing range with the fact that “Bubbles” (as they are so affectionally called) just seem to brighten any gathering whether it is intended to be festive or not.   So is it that far of a stretch to think that perhaps that sparkling wine can be a go-to table wine for wine lovers?   I say, “Absolutely not!”

Over the winter holidays, family members gathered and a varied range of palates were present.  Picking a wine to enjoy with some simple fare could be a joy, an adventure or a challenge depending on the taster’s opinion.   Regardless of what would be selected, the intent was to simply sit down with something warm to nibble, something fun to sip and hopefully incite some good conversation.   Rather than select something adventurous one evening, I pulled a bottle of sparkling wine to educate on its casual pairing appeal.   The wine and resulting food pairing was welcomingly received, consumed and applauded.

With all of the various sparkling wines available to choose, I selected one from my collection which had the benefit of bottle aging for an additional two years post the winery’s release.  For those who often write me and wonder where can you find some of these wines, the sparkling wine featured here is distributed seemingly everywhere in the United States and will likely be on your local grocer’s shelf.  The trick, however, is to have some discipline to set it aside and let it cellar for a year or two.  If you do, you will take an already wonderful sparkling wine and later experience it as a more evolved decadent sparkling wine that should seem worthy of a much higher price tag (for those interested in a comparison of what the wine is like off the grocer’s shelf, please see the article titled, “Mexican Mimosas” dated May 9, 2012, on this web site).  This week’s article features Chandon’s Brut Classic sparkling wine from Napa Valley, California.

This bottling in particular was purchased in 2010.  The vintage was not specified on the bottle but with cellaring just for two additional years, suddenly the sparkling wine tumbles into the glass releasing a bouquet yielding baked green apples, vanilla and a slight aroma of toast.  Generally when picked from the grocer’s shelf, the wine has crisp refreshing flavors.  Yet with additional bottle aging, the flavor profile changes to include delicious ripe green apple on the front to middle of the palate and a finish at the back of the palate that is rich as juicy baked pears.   The wine itself is slightly dry and the bubbles are light and crisp in the mouth, but not cuttingly so.   Similarly, we elected to serve the sparkling wine casually in white wine glasses as you will see in the picture above.  This was done to preserve the casual tone of the affair but also to allow the sparkling wine to open more in the glass and allow its bottle-aged aromas to fill the glass and captivate the drinker’s nose.

To pair, given that it is winter, I chose to create:

• Leek Fondue with Maine Cherrystone Clams

In France, leeks are seasonal during the winter.   Similarly I knew that I would have some Maine Cherrystone Clams to use over the winter holidays so who better to culinary brainstorm with than my good friend, James.   For those who have seen James’ name pop up on occasion in my articles in the last few years, as a reminder, James is not only an avid chef, but is a native to Maine and lived abroad extensively in France (my international  studied and early cooking skills came from study abroad in Mexico).   So with James on board, noodling away we went.  

A good leek fondue sounded so comforting on a dark winter’s evening.   When making a leek fondue it is very similar to the process of caramelizing onions.  Simply allow the chopped leek to slowly cook until it becomes a near melted consistency.  When leeks reach this stage of cooking, they are so soft and supple that they seem to cling to every delicious bit of flavor from the pan.  Similarly I had some shallots and garlic to use, so caramelizing those would become part of the recipe.  By now, the flavor profile is shaping up to be sweet in flavor.  Clams are naturally sweet.  When Cherrystone Clams from Maine are added at the last minute, they are substantive and add a wonderful texture in addition to being a compatible sweet ingredient.  To add some depth, lemon thyme that was harvested from the garden in the fall is added and finally, just as the clams are added, a bit of the sparkling wine is added to the mixture.   All of those wonderful aromas lift from the pan and the dish is slightly infused with traces of baked apple and pear flavors.

To finish the dish, it is served atop a toasted buttered rustic, artisan bread.  Nothing fancy:  something unquestionably sweet and simple.

In the mouth, adding the sparkling wine to the leek fondue made a huge difference as it tied all of the sweet flavors of the leeks, shallots, garlic and clams together with a flavorful bow.  Similarly as the sparkling wine is served in the white wine glass, not only is it in theme with being paired with a simple appetizer, but the bouquet of the wine continues to open and drift upward faster:  ultimately tieing the food and the wine pairing tighter together. 

This appetizer pairs impeccably with a glass of sparkling wine.  Ripe pear flavors tumble into the sweetness of the leek fondue and clams but the ripe green apple flavors brighten the palate and transition it for the next bite.

Tiny little bubbles capture the gleam of the dining light and for a moment on a cold winter’s evening, you feel transported to the countryside of France, sharing a tasting experience with family and good friends.