Jan 23 2013
Snuggle Up With Syrah
Baby, it’s cold outside. But it is to be expected since it is January. Much of the United States right now is gripped by artic air and when it gets this cold, people reach for red wine. They do not reach for just any red wine. In the last few days and weeks, more and more people are accessing the site searching for big, dark, heavy warming reds such as Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, various Clarets, Mixed Blacks and Petit Verdot. These are not just ordinary red wines. They are complex, they are involved and they are bold varietals. At one point or another, they have all been featured here.
But for those who are searching, let us not forget another red varietal that can be a powerhouse at the table: Syrah. In the United States, Syrah is most often made in the form of two styles, “Californian” and “French”. The Californian style tends to be big, boisterous in the mouth and belongs saddled up next to your favorite smoky barbeque joint. The French style tends to be smoother, more refined. Regardless of your preference, the Syrah grape itself brings complexity to the dining table and warms the soul over the course of a meal. Similarly, Syrah pairs with a number of styles of rustic or spicy cuisine which is what Americans tend to reach for when the temperatures are dipping down to the single digits at night.
When inclimate January weather arrives, having a wine collection is helpful. Searching through cellar aging reds, one can find something that he or she may not serve regularly and doing just this, we stumbled upon a 2004 vintage of Havens Vineyards’ (“Havens”) Hudson Vineyard Carneros Syrah. Havens Vineyard when in operation neighbored Elyse Winery in Yountville. While the winery shuttered its business during the recession, those who were lucky enough to set aside some Syrah in their wine collections are in for a treat.
Pouring into the glass, the Havens 2004 Hudson Vineyard Carneros Syrah gleams with hints of red ruby jewel tones. Its bouquet flows upwards out of the glass to greet the nose with aromas of smoke, raspberry, meat, mocha and spice. In the mouth, the wine texturally feels like smooth velvet ribbons rolling back across the palate. The flavor profile lends slightly tart blackberries and spice, which when combined add nice acidity and depth with a capability to pair with spicey tomato-based cuisine. The palate picks up on nuances of bacon fat, licorice, cassis and pepper.
To pair, something rustic, warm and hearty should be served. Keeping the note of the wine in mind, I created:
Chicken Roasted Vegetable Tinga over Brown Rice
With chipotle peppers and fire roasted tomatoes, a spicey red sauce can be created in minutes. This sauce can be used as a salsa or to cover chicken to roast in the oven with Vidalia onions.
Once roasted, the chicken is crudely shredded, tossed in a bit more of the roasted chipotle tomato sauce and then placed back into the oven to crisp a bit and warm.
Also in the oven are pieces of eggplant and zucchini which have been roasting in a mixture of olive oil, cumin, oregano and lemon thyme.
Once all ingredients are complete, they are arranged on top of a bed of brown rice on a platter to be served family-style.
The Havens 2004 Hudson Vineyard Syrah finds its home with the spices in this meal. The wine clings to the herbs and spices in the roasted vegetables and warmly embraces the chipotle chile in the tomato sauce. The acidity of the wine lessens as it meets the acidity of the tomato, each cancelling one another out. Instead a smooth parade of flavors transport across the palate, with the spices in the wine and the food warming the soul on their way down.
The Havens 2004 Hudson Vineyard Syrah can be sipped alone and celebrated for its merits or it can sidle up to warm, spiced meal such as this. However, as this winter delivers inclimate weather to your doorstep and you search your wine collection, remember that your cellared Syrahs do not need to wait for smoky summer barbeques but instead can be a welcomed rustic invitee to the simple flavors of provincial cuisine. Cheers!
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