Everyone seemingly anticipates spring earlier this year.  With the official commencement of spring only three weeks away, the anticipation of its arrival is palpable.  The birds seem to chirp louder and faster, humans have a noticeable spring in their step and local garden centers cannot wait to plant vegetable garden ideas in your head.  Similarly, new growth appears all around, as tulips and daffodils push their way up and onto the scene.  It is apparent that a clean slate is right around the corner and life is about to bound forward.

As floral aromas fill the air from budding trees to flowering blossoms on the ground, look to Viognier as a welcoming white varietal.  While I generally prefer consuming white wines in the warmer summer months, there is something special about enjoying Viognier in the month leading up to spring and the months thereafter.  The immediate answer that will spring forth from budding wine connoisseurs is that Viognier is readily known for its distinct floral perfume.  While the varietal is decidedly aromatic, it is not overwhelmingly so  such that you feel destined for a ladies’ garden club lunch.  The other answer is that the varietal is often recognized for a fuller feeling in the mouth and accompanied by more spice than other white wine varietals.  Due to this second component, it is sensually a good varietal to transition the palate from the drinking of heavier red wine (which largely occurs during winter) and instead festively open the cellar door to the future possibilities of enjoying white wines and later rosés.

Emilio Estevez and Sonja Magdevski of Casa Dumetz in Malibu offer a Viognier presently as their only white wine.  While at first glance this may seem unique even for a small artisan winery like theirs, the logic is readily clear once you realize the origin of the fruit sourced.  As discussed in a prior August article on this site, Casa Dumetz has smartly established a relationship with the owners of the Tierra Alta Vineyard, located in Santa Barbara County, California.  The owners of the vineyard are growers only (which means that Casa Dumetz should be able to consistently source a steady supply of quality fruit) and the vineyard itself is unique in nature (due to climate, geography and soil).   The same vineyard is supplying Casa Dumetz with other varietals of grapes which in turn become the winery’s rosé, sparkling wine, Grenache and Syrah.    The result is, save for the Pinot Noir grapes which are grown in their own Malibu yard, that Casa Dumetz can create a consistent quality and flavor profile for the wines in its portfolio because of its reliable and intelligent relationship with this particular vineyard (for more specific information regarding the Tierra Alta Vineyard, please reference the article “Summer Lovin’ Syrah Rosé” on this web site).

Casa Dumetz’s 2010 Clementina Viognier cleverly captures the essence of California springtime in a bottle.  Outfitted with a screw cap, fresh vibrant aromas of stone fruit and flowers immediately emerge.   Once poured into the glass, the wine offers an enchanting perfume of white nectarine traced with aromas of sugared almonds.   In the mouth, the 2010 Clementina Viognier deliciously rolls back like a warm setting California sun.  Flavors of white nectarine, apricot and yellow peach unfold, while accompanied by caramel ribbons.  To create depth, as any good Viognier does, the palate is tickled by ginger spice both at the front and on a revisit with the finish.   Given the calcareous soil from which these Viognier grapes hail, it is easy to understand why this Rhone varietal shows off far more vibrantly than when grown in other regions.   It is a reminder of the sunny disposition of Southern California and the casual feel of the state’s Central Coast.

Food pairing is often recommended when consuming Viognier.   If grown in California, the alcohol content can often be high for a white wine (in this case, it is 14.5%).  While Viognier grapes prefer warmer climates and a longer growing season, the varietal is fickle in that if it is left to ripen too long it can become overly perfumed and with an extremely high alcohol content.   Thus, when grown in California, the grape must stay on the vine long enough to fully ripen and yet balance the risk of over-exposure to heat.   So often in California, it is not uncommon to find a balanced well-made Viognier which also yields a higher than anticipated alcohol content.

This aspect regarding Viognier, however, should not deter one from pairing cuisine.   Viognier is readily recognized for pairing with slightly acidic dishes, Asian cuisine and a bevy of seasonal spring vegetarian dishes.   With this in mind, this week’s menu hosts:

• Brussel Sprout Egg Rolls with Spiced Apricot Dipping Sauce.

If you are like me, you can eat fresh seasonal brussel sprouts by the pound.  Whether steamed or shaved into salads, these guys have a delicious spring flavor peppered with a natural mustard flavor.  For the fussy eater or for the creatively inclined, grate them into egg rolls.

First, naturally sweet baby carrots are finely grated.   They are grated first and set aside on a paper towel to absorb some of the liquid that is immediately released from the carrots.  This will help keep the vegetable filling from becoming too soggy.   Next brussel sprouts are coarsely grated.   Minced water chestnuts and garlic are added next before sliced fresh scallions are added.  Quickly heating the vegetable mixture in a covered sauté pan for three minutes over a medium heat allows the contents to crisp without burning.   Next a sauce of Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, ginger, cayenne pepper and other ingredients is mixed to gently toss and coat the vegetables.   With egg roll wrappers ready, the filling is incorporated and the egg rolls are made.   Rather than fry, the egg rolls are sprayed with a non-stick cooking spray before being tucked into a hot oven to bake and crisp.  These egg rolls emerge from the oven ready to welcome spring with their naturally fresh flavors.

To serve along side, apricot preserves serve as a starting base to create a sauce that incorporates Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, water, red chili pepper flakes and ginger.  To add color it and the plate is garnished with chopped scallions.

Paired with the wine, the fresh spring vegetable flavors dance whimsically with the Viognier’s stone fruit and ginger spice.  Similarly the spiced apricot dipping sauce ties directly to the wine’s fruit and spice.   The combination is delightful and while enjoyed in the company of good friends on a weekend afternoon, it will make spring seem all the closer.