Aug 30 2011
Seriously Petite Sirah
Petite Sirah is one of those red varietals that rarely do I reach for except for during the dregs of winter. Notoriously rustic, complex, rich and often lumbering across the palate in a no-nonsense sort of way, Petite Sirah readily pairs with comfort food and is in ready reach on a dark, stormy night. Yet, only days away from the last holiday weekend of summer, given this varietal’s diversity in food pairing, it can staunchly hold its ground alongside your grill.
When seeking a good Petite Sirah, one should immediately stop in Elyse Winery in Yountville. Known for its aptitude in making Petite Sirah, Elyse Winery presently offers its Napa Valley 2007 Barrel Select Petite Sirah (the “2007 Barrel Select”). As this gorgeous wine tumbles into the glass and its rich aromas waft upwards, there is no question that this is a no-nonsense Petite Sirah. It captures your attention and shows no sign of releasing it any time soon. The wine’s nose boldly shows off scents of blackberry, blueberry, cloves, espresso, cola, earth and violets. On the palate, delicious deep flavors of strawberries, roasted plums, blueberries, blackberries, delicious spices and a slightly smoky flavor unfold. The 2007 Barrel Select is full-bodied and having had the benefit of having it in my wine collection already for a couple of years, I have been able to taste it over the years and watch it mature into a serious wine with a serious presence. Still available at the winery for purchase, should you pick this wine up, it will cellar for many years to come and Robert Parker Jr. at The Wine Advocate even dares to suggest that it will age for two decades or longer.
Knowing that this 2007 Barrel Select offers complexity and depth, it can hold up against fare off the backyard grill and diverse fare at that. This week’s menu hosts:
- Grilled Polenta Chicken Stuffed Pasilla Chiles on a bed of Black Beans and Salsa Cruda
Many probably scratch their heads and question, “Mexican cuisine… with Petite Sirah?” Simply, yes. Given the rich spices in the wine and that it is solidly full-bodied, the 2007 Barrel Select will hold up with the diverse flavors and spices of traditional Mexican cuisine. If you still doubt, look to past articles here to see another winery’s Petite Sirah hold up against Mole Poblano.
Pasilla chiles are a milder chile and presently they are gorgeous and in season at the local produce stands. To give a respectful nod to the varietal’s rustic nature, creamy polenta is used to create a unique filling to stuff the chile pepper. The polenta is mixed with lemon thyme, cilantro, sautéed white onion, garlic and Mexican Ranchero Queso. Before the chile pepper is fully filled, shredded grilled chicken tossed in a tomatillo salsa. Once filled, the tops are placed back on the chiles and they are ready to sit atop a hot charcoal grill.
Once roasted on the grill, these chiles are placed atop a bed of black beans and colorful salsa cruda to pair up with the 2007 Barrel Select.
Comforting flavors of the polenta, cheese, sweet tomatillo salsa and mild roasted pasilla chile naturally intertwine with the wine. The smoky flavors that accompany the roasted pasilla chile off the grill accentuate the same and the spice component found in the wine. Similarly the earthy notes of cloves, oak and earth spring forward in the 2007 Barrel Select when paired with the black beans.
While a unique pairing, the pairing makes Petite Sirah feel like an intended guest at the backyard table near the grill. And as the days grow shorter and that slight chill of the evening arrives, we know all too well that autumn is right around the corner.
*Before summer ends, learn about another great warm weather wine from Paso Robles, California, on my new tab The SLO Vine. Posted now and a new article forthcoming the last Tuesday of each month, learn about more food pairings and wine from San Luis Obispo County, California. Cheers!
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