In the last few weeks, a ferocious summer heat wave has gripped the entire nation all but for Napa Valley and the Bay Area.   Temperatures remain idyllic and the closer you are to the coast, a cooling fog rolls in making tannic red wines palatable.   While this may be my reality, it is not that of my reading base and last week, trying to inspire creativity with a new twist, I took to Facebook to seek suggestions as to what ingredient or dish to create and I will match the challenge of finding a suitable wine pairing.   The result was a resounding plea to somehow ease the excessive heat and humidity throughout the nation.

Imagery, ingredients and dry crisp refreshing white wines were imperative to this relief article.   A good friend in the South reminded that mangoes have come into season and that with his local excessive heat and humidity, a certain mango-seafood ceviche was the vote to ease entertaining in the local elements.   A figurative light bulb illuminated above my head and I focused in on the seasonal mango.  

Mangoes have a unique flavor, sweetness, texture and acidity.   Given the excessive heat and humidity elsewhere in the United States, pairing this ingredient with anything but a dry white wine would be oppressive.   Yet looking in Napa Valley, dry white wines are often limited to sparkling wine, sauvignon blanc wine and very few remaining chenin blanc vines.  I had recently featured sparkling wine and while that would be an effortless pairing, that was not the solution.   Sauvignon Blanc is granted one of the top refreshing summer white wines, but with its high acidity, to pair it with mango would be a culinary disaster in the making.   Chenin Blanc would be a welcome pairing, yet, those that I appreciate, I have already featured.    Riesling came to mind but none were to be found in my collection as this varietal is rarely found in Napa Valley (largely because it is too hot to be grown successfully and similarly as each of my picks had already been featured in prior articles).   Studying my collection, it became apparent that it was time to leave Napa Valley . . . if not the great state of California.

Before my readership gasps (and the Pacific Northwest jumps for joy), let’s think rationally.   It is summer.  Summer is known for road trips and jaunts out of state on the proverbial holiday road.   Looking in the rear view mirror at Napa Valley, many wineries are featuring 2010 white wines and readily understood, that is a vintage that is going to be hit or miss and maybe it is beneficial to give your Napa-based palate a “time out”.  Look instead to other American Viticultural Areas and wine regions in the state or the country that were not beleaguered with a notably challenged growing season.   In this spirit, mentally load the family car and venture up to Washington State in search of a varietal that excels there:   Riesling.

Riesling thrives in cooler climates but equally is highly terrroir-expressive.   If you have had the opportunity to enjoy this varietal previously and are somewhat familiar with it, exploring it in various locations throughout the Pacific Northwest and Northern California will be a worthwhile and fun education.  Depending on where the grapes are harvested, the wine will show off greater fruit or increased minerality or it may boldly set forth an almost racy acidity.   Washington State has a combination of climate and soil that sets forth a confident varietal and yet with enough diversity that winemakers can show off the varietal’s ability to be dry, off-dry or sweet.   Many confuse Riesling as being a sweet wine, but it can be dry and when it is, it is a summer’s meal preferred accompaniment. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State offers an outstanding Riesling that is a collaboration between a famed German winemaker and a renown local winemaker.   The Eroica Riesling artfully shows the ability to blend together two distinct winemaking styles:  (i) a German style that is regarded for sleek elegance and (ii) a Washington style that is loyal to its region’s bolder fruit and rounder mouth-feel.    Open a bottle of the 2009 Eroica Columbia Valley Riesling and the palate will find a wine oasis despite excessive summer heat.

Falling into the glass, the wine is aromatic and fresh as a wine country summer evening.   Accompanied by crisp minerality, the wine offers a refreshing flintiness that skates across the palate.  Undeniable citrus accompanied by breathless soft stone fruit render this wine to a summer romance in the glass. As the wine finishes on the palate, there is a quick feisty twist of lime.   Further, one of the silent sung beauties of Washington State is its cooler climate which perceivably renders lower alcohol content in its wine offerings.   In the case of the 2009 Eroica, the wine only levels 12% alcohol content making it seem nearly guiltless.   Taking all of this into account, it is easy to envision why this wine will pair with a broad spectrum of food pairings which include fish, cheeses, fruit and spicy fair.

Reflecting back to my friend’s mango ceviche suggestion, culinary inspiration was derived and this week’s menu hosts:

• Riesling Marinated Grilled Pacific Halibut Topped with Mango-Avocado Salsa on a bed of Julienned Riesling Steamed Zucchini and Carrots.

Seafood is an easy pairing for Riesling.   However, it is summer and with hot temperatures, light easy fare is desired.   While Chilean Sea Bass flavor-wise would be a terrific pairing with mango and this Riesling, this fish is presently on the “avoid list” from the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.   It is listed as a fish to avoid as it is over-farmed and caught presently.   This list changes frequently and needs to be monitored (if you are an avid seafood fan) but in the spirit of being committed to promoting sustainability, perfectly consumable Pacific Halibut was selected.

Halibut on the East Coast can often have a stronger flavor, but if you find yourself on the West Coast, you will want to give Pacific Halibut a whirl as its flavor is delicately milder.  As fish marinates quickly, the halibut is set in  some of the Riesling in the fridge briefly prior to be sprinkled with ground ginger, fresh-ground pepper and sea salt.   Set atop a warm charcoal grill, the fish is doused with a few sprinkles of fresh Meyer lemon. 

Similarly, perfectly julienned zucchini and carrots are quickly steamed and sautéed in a bit of the Riesling.   This enhances the carrot’s naturally sweet flavor and the absorbent zucchini picks up the bright refreshing flavors of the wine to brighten the flavor of the vegetables which will create a moist bed beneath the fish.   Similarly, as the flavors are refreshing and bright, they are yet benign enough to not disturb the myriad of flavors piled above.

To top the halibut, a mango-avocado salsa is created using mangos, avocado, spring onion, sweet red bell pepper, jalapeno pepper, lime juice and fresh cilantro.   However, before assembling the salsa, the mango slices are sprinkled with ground ginger and added to the grill.  By grilling the mango, the mango naturally releases its sugars and slightly caramelizes while marrying with the ground ginger spice.  As an added bonus it takes on a slightly smoky flavor due to the charcoal.   Pieces of avocado are added at the last minute as the warm temperature of the mango will cause the avocado to soften slightly and accentuate the natural buttery nature of the Hass avocado.   It is the buttery nature of the avocado which then compliments the fish, as the salsa tops the piece.

The result is a light easy meal with a refreshing wine that could slice through the worst heat and humidity wherever you may find yourself in the country.  There is no strong fishy flavor whatsoever.   The halibut is substantive and delicious.   The flavors involved in the dish tie directly to the wine and given the wine’s citrus finish, the palate is naturally pulled to the flavors of the mango-avocado salsa.

The 2009 Eroica Columbia Valley Riesling is seemingly guiltless, easy drinking and conducive to carefree gatherings or at least reminding you to slow down, put your feet up and catch those late fading rays of summer sun while the rest of the world impatiently waits.