Over seven years ago, on a warm summer’s afternoon, I sat shotgun in my friend’s convertible Saab as we meandered down gravel roads in search of good Tuscan inspired wine in Napa Valley.   The sun shone famously that day, nurturing the grapes that adorned the vines that surrounded us.   We rode along listening to Getz/Gilberto with smiles permanently affixed to our faces and the air was pungent with aromas of lavender, rosemary, roses, ripening grapes and dust.   Our senses primed, it was an environment off of the traditional wine hospitality beaten path yet undeniably representative of California wine country.   As we pulled into Benessere Vineyards, cloudless powder blue skies crowned the day overhead and on the horizon were the redwood dressed mountains of St. Helena.   Surrounded by tangible beauty at every angle, nothing would compare with the Tuscan styled varietals that waited for us indoors. Not yet a true red wine lover, that day Sangiovese was the varietal upon which I successfully cut my previously staunch white-wine-loving palate. 

Sangiovese, known for its easy drinkability, is a wine upon which many a friendship has been made, if not strengthened.   It is the wine that is quickly selected for any gathering.   Benessere Vineyards’ (“Benessere”) Sangiovese is the varietal that is most often brought to restaurants when my friends gather to share a meal and catch up.  Clear across the country, on the other coast, my youngest brother sits upon a modest cellar of this varietal.   Sangiovese has become his favorite “stash” in his collection and if it is not commonly found in his wine glass, it is in that of his friends.

Sangiovese is a wine with meaning.   It is easily enjoyable by one and all.  No matter the vintage, year after year Benessere’s Sangiovese will not disappoint the consumer.  While it is made with remarkable consistency and quality, each year it manages to artfully capture the distinct influences of that specific growing season and extends a solemn nod to Mother Nature.  In fact this was the wine that I wrote about first on this site two years ago this very week.  At that point I had not yet made the brave leap to put my cooking on display for the world to not only see, but judge.  Fortunately, now two years later, your discriminating tastes have been in my favor.

2007 was a special year in Napa Valley where a grape seemingly just could not grow wrong.   Early in the spring of 2009, my brother and I returned to Benessere early on a Sunday morning after having attended a spring event at the winery the afternoon before.  Arriving early that day with an unmanipulated palate, we were fortunate enough to taste Sangiovese from the barrel and compare to the then 2006 vintage in the bottle (which was available for purchase).   In the quiet of the chilly winery, the wine loudly splashed into our waiting glasses and upon a mere sip, our eyes bulged as we swallowed in shock.   We had tasted the 2007 Sangiovese from the barrel and we were speechless until our exclamations of joy could not be contained any further.

Knowing what waited for us in that barrel, it was not difficult to exert patience and wait for the 2007 Sangiovese to be bottled.  In the meantime, anyone who was sharing a bottle of the 1999, the 2005 or the 2006 vintages with us had to endure listening to my brother, myself and another wine industry veteran exclaim repeatedly, “But wait until you taste the 2007!”   It could very well be that a single vintage of a particular varietal had never received such word-of-mouth anticipatory press.

Now in May of 2011, Benessere’s 2007 Sangiovese makes its rounds to tables of friends here and across the country.  Tumbling into the glass it shows off typical plum coloring but with ruby jewel tones that catch the late afternoon sun and wink back at you.  Liltingly smooth with delicious plum and anise spice, this wine continues to age well in the bottle and if you can set some aside it will continue to please your palate for years to come.   Made from over fourteen different clones of the Sangiovese grape, this wine has impressed colleagues who never knew that Sangiovese could be so delicious in a single 100% varietal bottling.  If you read last week’s article, this is the same varietal that makes the port that I recently featured.

While wine can be enjoyed on its own, when paired with food it becomes a conversation piece.    And when a good wine like Sangiovese and a good meal are combined with good friends, time slows and no matter where you are, you will feel as though you are gathered around a familiar table sharing that which matters most.  With this in mind, this week’s menu hosts:

• Caramelized Onion and Roasted Garlic Stuffed Pasta Shells with Sweet Marinara Sauce.

As two years worth of articles on this web site have demonstrated, gourmet food pairings do not have to be overly pretentious let alone have to involve unobtainable ingredients.  If one is resourceful, seasonal herbs and produce coupled with standard ingredients in the cupboard at home can quickly combine to create savory delights that will entertain any group of friends stopping by on a late Saturday afternoon. 

Here seasonal sweet onions are slowly caramelized in butter to naturally sweeten and soften.   Once almost done, razor thin slices of fresh garlic are gently added with chopped lemon thyme and marjoram (previously picked from the backyard garden).   Within a minute the mixture is overtly fragrant.   Ricotta and grated parmesan is folded into the mixture and cooked pasta shells are filled with this mixture before being placed in a pot.  Prior to covering the pot, the shells are dressed with a sweet marinara sauce and a sprinkle of grated provolone and fontina cheese.  Tucked into the oven, within thirty minutes, the shells will emerge ready to tantalize your friends.

While the garlic initially was briefly sautéed to soften, once tucked in the pasta shells, it continues to heat and as garlic continues to cook it becomes sweet and roasted.  As a result, the stuffed shells are so sweet and layered in flavors that they bring forth explosive blackberry, plum, smoke and more in depth flavors from the 2007 Sangiovese.   Since floral fresh marjoram is used, it is as if the Sangiovese puffs up its proverbial wine chest to stand out from the shells with a dash of machismo.  Topped with a sweet marinara sauce and subtly blended provolone and fontina, this is a stuffed shell destined to be savored and like none other.

Flavors in the stuffed shells are naturally sweet and softly balance together to make each bite exquisite and on the level of gourmet.   It will surprise your friends who have called a few hours before to let you know that they are dropping by.  To feed is to nurture, so it is only fitting that this wine finds itself most often present when breaking bread with family or good friends.   With luck, they will bring a bottle of Benessere’s Sangiovese with them.   If not, with better luck, you will be prepared as this wine will be a staple in your own wine collection.

Benessere’s 2007 Sangiovese is consistent.   It is balanced, it does not try to dominate the scene.   It is reliable and conveys a steady confidence.  Perhaps it is due to these qualities that Sangiovese is frequently shared with one’s closest of friends.   No matter the reason, Benessere’s Sangiovese inherently belongs in your pack.