Never.    Zinfandel, or “Zin” as aficionados lovingly call it, is a red wine which has a broad spectrum of tastes.   Some are spicy, some are “jammy”, and some are as smooth as silk.   

How is it that a Zinfandel can vary so drastically from one winery to another?   

Why is it that these different descriptive components can be found in some Zinfandels but not necessarily all or together?  

Zinfandel is widely known for being able to host the individual characteristics of its terroir, age of the grapevine, and the talent of the winemaker involved.   For example, Zinfandels which come from grapevines that are 80 years old, are generally considered “Old Vine Zinfandels”.   Definitions vary and some winemakers will consider vines old at 50 years.   My personal experience is that Zinfandels which glide across your palate, convey a sense of smoothness and demonstrate even balance are made from zinfandel grapes which typically come from old vines that are at least 80 years old, if not older.        

Zinfandels are touted by many as the classic barbeque wine.    And they most certainly are.    Depending on the Zinfandel that you are enjoying, it might go with simple grilled meats and vegetables, hearty barbeque spice rubs, marinades or sauces.   Given that Father’s Day is this weekend (and many a dad loves to barbeque), a bottle of Zinfandel would be a gift suitable for any backyard gathering that you might be attending. Better yet, if you are near Napa Valley, taking your father Zinfandel tasting.

Elyse Winery (“Elyse”), located here in Napa Valley on Hoffman Lane in Yountville, produces four (4) consistently good, solid Zinfandels which I believe present a great starting point for learning about the different Zinfandel styles mentioned earlier.    Of the four (4) Zinfandels produced at Elyse, I am going to focus primarily on three (3) of their Zinfandels:    (i) A.K.A. Zinfandel ; (ii) Zinfandel – Morisoli Vineyard; and (iii) Howell Mountain Zinfandel.   

A.K.A. Zinfandel:   That’s right, “A.K.A.” as in “also known as.”    This Zinfandel comes from a very well-regarded vineyard in Napa Valley such that the winery is not allowed to disclose its actual location in its labeling and marketing.    Trust me, the wine will speak for itself.    The zinfandel vines used to make this wine are younger, approximately only 30 years old.    The result from using younger vines, in my opinion, is that you obtain a Zinfandel which is commonly described as “jammy” compared to its counterparts.    The terroir  where the vines sit will also determine the degree and level of spiciness that is found in the wine as well.    In the glass, this Zinfandel has a beautiful ruby, jewel-tone color and big blackberry notes welcome your nose.    On the palate the wine does offer a “jammy” component but it is also accompanied by a nice balanced representation of spices such as Asian spice, anise and a hint of licorice.   I would be tempted to try this alongside grilled salmon with an heirloom cherry tomato, chive butter sauce.  But this wine will easily go with tomato-based sauces, a simple table cheese like Fontal and something as basic as a burger off the grill or steak.

Zinfandel  – Morisoli Vineyard:     This Zinfandel is produced from old vine zinfandel grapes from the well-regarded Morisoli Vineyard along the Rutherford Bench in Napa Valley.    As indicated earlier, this Zinfandel does not disappoint as it exhibits a rich smoothness that causes the wine to roll across the palate like velvet.  While it does have the “plummy” fruit characteristics of an old vine zinfandel to greet you on the front part of the palate, they are not as pronounced as younger Zinfandels typically boldly hold forward.    It is smooth, balanced, and elegant.    It also boasts a slight hint of spice such that it would pair well with simple grilled meats that are not overly spiced and a wide variety of grilled vegetables.   

Howell Mountain Zinfandel:   Pepper, spice and Everything “Oh So Nice…”   The Howell Mountain Zinfandel comes from a vineyard on Howell Mountain.   For those unfamiliar, Howell Mountain tends to produce fruit (whether for a Zinfandel, Claret, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.) that is loaded with spice because of the terroir  where the vines are planted.   The terroir  of Howell Mountain always assures that the geography will be noted in the wine that is produced from its grapes.   This Zinfandel does not disappoint.   As I initially alluded, this wine demands immediate attention from your senses as you are instantly greeted by big peppery notes on the front of the palate, followed by subtle spices as the wine works its way back.    The presence of plum and dark black raspberry in this wine is vibrant and exhibits the characteristics of truly ripe fruit, coaxing your senses to explore more.    This was the Zinfandel which I elected to pair with a meal for this week’s article.    I elected to make chipotle chile grilled barbeque chicken with rosemary and garlic roasted miniature red potatoes, accompanied by a side of grilled zucchini.    The smokiness in the chipotle chile component of the barbeque sauce helped bring out some of the spices found in this wine, in addition to wonderfully complimenting the wine with its own inherent pepper and spiciness.    Using rosemary with the roasted potatoes actually helped to slightly tame the bold pepper notes in the wine and bring forward more fruit on the palate.   Zucchini, as the vegetable choice, has a subtle flavor but boasts enough backbone against an otherwise peppery bold Zinfandel.     The Howell Mountain Zinfandel has its own smoky alluring components which add for a nice complexity if you are enjoying it with something simple.   Feeling ultra-casual?   Grab a bag of salt and black pepper potato chips and nibble slowly while sipping a glass of this “Zinful” beauty.

As previously mentioned, Elyse does have a  fourth Zinfandel (produced from grapes from the Korte Ranch Vineyard), which is not necessarily my favorite.   It is a good Zinfandel with lots of blackberry on the nose, but given the components that I experience in this wine, I find that it pairs very well with aged dry jack cheese and other hard cheeses.    For full meals, however, I personally prefer the other three (3) listed above.  

*Elyse has many other wonderful wines that are available to taste in its tasting room.   If you are planning a visit to Elyse, please note that you need to call ahead and reserve a time to visit them.    If you honor their appointment requirement, you will be met by knowledgeable hospitality staff and your palate will not be disappointed by the array of wines available at their tasting bar.    Of additional note, Elyse wines (and their second label, Jacob Franklin) are frequently found on wine lists in restaurants in Napa Valley (if not throughout the U.S.).