Cooler temperatures continue to taunt the Bay Area this month as the wind whips residents into shape and renders them fully cognizant that summer is two months away.    While residents long for warmer temperatures, the late wintery spring rains have seemingly subsided and have allowed the sun to cast its rays upon Napa Valley.   With slightly warmer temperatures and nurturing rays of the sun, low and behold, those tiny bits of green festive hope broke forward from otherwise winter dormant vines:   bud break.

In wine country, bud break brings a lighter, if not festive, mood.   Given the contagious nature of this mood, it is only fitting this week to feature a varietal that is characterized by liveliness:  Barbera.  

In Italy, Barbera is the second-most-planted grape in the country.   It produces wines which can be either medium or full bodied.   Barbera’s flavor profile is that of juicy berries, yet, unlike many of its other red wine counterparts, this varietal is known for a consistent pleasing acidity.  To date, however, I have yet to sample a 100% Barbera in Napa Valley that captures my full attention and that of my wallet.  Crossing over the Mayacamas Mountains to neighboring Sonoma County, a pleasant and fun Barbera caught my attention at B.R. Cohn Winery (“B.R. Cohn”).

B.R. Cohn produces a 100% Barbera called “Boater’s Barbera”.   While the name may at first seem a bit goofy, off-beat or trendy, there is reason for its naming: as simple as the fact that Bruce Cohn restored his 1963 Century Resorter as the family ski boat.   Fun imagery readily ensues of a V8 powered mahogany ski boat skimming summer waters while bright sunshine beams above. Add a red wine, such as Barbera, with its lively bright fun acidity and the picture sharpens and “Boater’s Barbera” is apt. 

Pour the wine into the glass and the coloring is that of lustrous ruby gems and aromas of cranberry, red raspberry and strawberry reach up to entice the nose.   On the palate, the wine shoots straight from the hip with no-nonsense bright flavors akin to freshly picked berry fruit with juicy cranberries.   There are no readily detectable tannins but instead the wine is readily enjoyable and easily accessible even to palates which many generally have trouble with red wines.

Given that Barbera pairs well with acidic produce, this week’s menu involves the challenge of using spring seasonal produce but in a manner to pair with the lighter more acidic red wine:

·         Marinated Chicken With Strawberry Salsa Atop Grilled Tortillas.

Chicken breasts marinate in a combination of red raspberry vinegar, olive oil, garlic and cilantro sprigs.   Slices are gently made into the top of the chicken so when flipped on the charcoal grill, the chicken can be easily stuffed with shredded jack cheese.

Strips of Maui Onion are gently grilled and once removed a medley of fresh corn tortillas are added to the grill to quickly warm and take on the smoky flavor of the grill.

Waiting however at the table is the true star of this meal, my Strawberry Salsa.  Big, meaty fresh strawberries are roughly chopped.  Chiles are fire roasted and chopped.   Maui onion, cilantro, red raspberry vinegar, cumin and other spices are added to the strawberries.

To assemble the plate, the tortillas are laid as a simple foundation to be topped with fresh microgreens, a chicken breast, strips of Maui onion and finally dressed with the Strawberry Salsa.  Seasonal Maui onion from the farmer’s market is intentionally used due to its juicy incomparable sweet flavor.   Microgreens also have a sweet flavor and a delicate texture which does not overpower the wine and instead ties the meal together.

The wine pairs perfectly with the chicken and other components of this menu, the Barbera pairs exceptionally well with the Strawberry Salsa.  The wine ultimately is like a cranberry reduction sauce adding to the festivity of berry flavors, chilies and spices on the palate.

Generally the bright acidity can make Barbera a challenge to pair with food until the warmer months of summer arrive with its varied bounty of local fresh produce.  However, think outside the culinary box this spring and dress up seasonal fruit and vegetables with some spice to pair with predictably fun Barbera.   Seasonal at its best:   Barbera embraces spring produce readily and confidently, beckoning summer forward with its best come hither stare.

* “Dicing for Dollars” to Get Its Sauté on for Operatic Sound

Kristin Hanson, author of The Casual Connoisseur, and a team of amateur cooks will be competing on April 30th in the Hall Winery Cabernet Cook-off to raise money for the Napa Valley Opera House.   Kristin’s team called “Dicing for Dollars” will be cooking a meal made from organic seasonal food items, including produce and meat donated by Bay Area organic and biodynamic farmers and ranchers, to be paired with Hall Winery’s 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  For just $55 you can come enjoy some delicious food and spectacular wine and help support the future of the arts in Napa Valley at the same time.  Come root for the “Dicing for Dollars” team and put your money where your palate is!  (Contact Hall Winery for tickets!)