Rolling into December, the grape vines of Napa Valley cling to the last of their now brown and lifeless leaves.   Mother Nature has readied the vines for oncoming winter such that they stand barren throughout acres upon acres of vineyards in Napa Valley.   Above, clouds rumble bringing long-awaited rain and fog (typically absent from California wine country from spring until now).   Yet, despite the absence of the sun or the lush leaves that normally adorn the grape vines, there is something stoically picturesque about Napa Valley at this time of year.  

Given the rainy weather and cool temperatures, one might first reach for a glass of red wine.  Instead, I find that December is an ideal time to enjoy a particular white wine, Riesling.  Riesling can be enjoyed any time of the year.   It is simply that versatile of a wine but it is particularly enjoyable during holiday entertaining.  Having had the recent opportunity to spend an afternoon with Stu Smith of Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery (“Smith-Madrone”, located on Spring Mountain with lovely views of Napa Valley below), it was the perfect time to sample his Riesling and discuss the merits of the grape.   Stu Smith, both vineyard manager and winemaker (along with his brother Charlie), started Smith-Madrone in 1971 and made its first vintage of Riesling in 1977.   With over 30 years worth of vintages, Stu Smith agrees with how versatile Riesling is.   Making the classic analogy to the holiday dinner setting where hypothetical Aunt “Wine-know-it-all” Claire sits across from easy-going Uncle “It Tastes Good” Bob who sits adjacent to Aunt “I only drink White Wine” Louise, Riesling is the wine which can please the palate of any of these guests.   Being able to span such a diverse crowd successfully is a significant accomplishment for any varietal.

Riesling is readily recognized for growing best in cooler climates which at first thought makes Napa Valley a challenging geographic location.  Winding up Spring Mountain, however, the temperature drops and you see road signs warning of possible ice.   Suddenly Riesling has potential.   The grape’s potential increases even more when the soil of the area is taken into consideration.   Riesling is particularly terroir-expressive.   When considering Smith-Madrone’s rocky, dry volcanic soil, it is understandable that the Riesling grapes grown at the winery will produce a perfectly expressive aromatic wine.   To ensure the integrity of the soil’s influence on the grapes, the winery is dry-farmed.   As a result, Smith-Madrone’s 2009 Riesling offers a bouquet of honeysuckle, fresh yellow peaches and orange blossoms.  On the palate, the wine offers peach on the entry, minerality mid-palate and a finish of freshly picked apricots.   People often wonder how you “taste” minerality, but it is often best described as a “flintiness” in the wine which adds character and a degree of dimension.    While Riesling is acidic, Smith-Madrone’s Riesling offers an acidity that simply presents a pleasant liveliness in the mouth.

From a food pairing perspective, Riesling can pair with a variety of foods from seafood to turkey but because of its acidity, it can also pair with cranberries (provided that they are properly sweetened).   Given the holiday season and the need for creative, yet easy entertaining ideas, this week’s menu holds:

·         Fiesta Festive Cranberry Spread

In this deliciously simple appetizer, fresh cranberries are first used to create a jam-like consistency with sugar, a tiny bit of ginger, and the juice and zest of Rangpur limes from the patio.  For those unaware, the Rangpur lime is a small citrus that is like combining a tangerine and a lime flavorwise.   The tree can be successfully grown as a dwarf container citrus and when ripe, the fruit is a golden orange hue.

Once the cranberry based jam has cooled, diced green chilies, chili powder, cayenne powder, garlic salt and chopped fresh green onions are added until well-blended.   Then spooned over low-fat cream cheese, the spread is ready to be served with either fresh baked bread from a local bakery or even crackers.

When paired with the Riesling, the minerality in the wine readily embraces the spices in the cranberry spread.   The acidity of the wine readily meets the acidity of the cranberries and citrus.   Topping low-fat cream cheese to create a spread is not only affordable but cuts calories during a month long-recognized for over-indulgence.

Dress your Riesling up or dress it down with food pairings this holiday season.  It is guaranteed to arrive at the table dressed for the occasion given its versatility in pairing with food.